GMT "Spring-summer 2009 - # 19"
Brice Lechevalier
Bernard Fornas, CEO Cartier
Did the SIHH go as you expected?
As you know, a very good SIHH can turn out to be part of a very bad year, and vice versa. What really interests me in this trade show is the reaction to our new releases. In a global company such as ours with a worldwide presence, the issues are not the same as when you are working with agents. The main point for us is to confirm that our products are well accepted and well positioned. Such is indeed the case, so I can say I was pleasantly surprised.
Cartier presented 11 new Haute Horlogerie watches, and even more Haute Joaillerie creations – not to mention countless variations on more affordable models: does that mean the brand is struggling to define its focus?
Our strategy has always been extremely clear-cut. Cartier is a world leader in the field of jewellery and Haute Joaillerie watches, and I decided two years ago to accelerate the pace in Haute Horlogerie in order to become one of the major players in this sector. This was simply not possible before, because we did not have enough movements. Our international visibility was well ahead of our production capacity. We therefore decided to invest in acquiring the means to rise to the very peak of the men's watch pyramid. As far as the core segment is concerned, don't forget we are the world's second largest watch producer behind Rolex, and our offer is naturally proportionate to our size.
Does the Richemont Group takeover of the Manufacture Roger Dubuis open up new perspectives for you?
We now have two strings to our bow in the area of Haute Horlogerie: on the one hand, the models bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark which do indeed come from our workshop in this new Manufacture; and on the other hand, the Haute Horlogerie models created on our site in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which has an over 1,000- strong workforce and is responsible for 8 of the new releases you mentioned earlier. We presented only three Haute Horlogerie models at last year's SIHH, this year the figure has risen to 11 and you can expect plenty more next year. Cartier is going to become an inescapable player in the field of Haute Horlogerie.
Which of these new models do you feel best represents the Cartier spirit?
No single watch can sum up the Cartier spirit. While Ballon Bleu was the greatest launch ever made, our Baignoire watch is doubtless the most feminine watch on the planet. Among the new Haute Horlogerie models, I really like the Tank Américaine Tourbillon, as well as the Rotonde Chronographe Central, which repre- sents an unprecedented innovation. As far as the Haute Joaillerie watch models are concerned, it's impossible to choose between them, just as you find all your children equally beautiful!
What is the watchword for the new financial year starting in April?
Continuity. The creativity and the dynamism of Cartier go hand in hand with serenity. Our company prepared for the worst when everything was going well. We are number one in China, in Russia, the Middle East, and in the nations composing the CIS. Our past and current investments in these emerging countries enable us to compensate for the slow-down on traditional markets such as the USA and Japan. We are indeed continuing to open boutiques on these new markets in order to reinforce our positions. This company is run with a long-term vision. We don't want to rely on publicity stunts to help sell the brand, nor to highlight celebrities whose fame is by definition fleeting… For us, Cartier is the star and everything we do is governed by a determination to make Cartier endure forever.
No one had foreseen the sheer magnitude of the current crisis; what kind of prospects do you see for watchmaking?
Nobody can claim to have the answer; some are predicting it will last of six months or one year – I hope they are right! We know neither the depth nor the duration of this crisis. What's important for us is to continue gaining market shares. Having constantly invested in both commercial and creative development, we can now rely on over 300 Cartier boutiques, while our design department comprises thirty people from 11 countries and is still growing. This new SIHH has proved that we have made the right decisions on all levels. The firm has already witnessed several economic crises as well as two world wars, but it is stronger than ever and our strategy is holding fast to the same course.
Cartier is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its American subsidiary in 2009: what other major events can we expect this year?
Another big event will take place at the end of the year in China, where we are to be hosted by the Palace Museum of the Forbidden City. This is the first time that the doors are open to a specific brand, an opportunity that enables us to display the full extent of the Cartier heritage, expertise and culture. Last year, Cartier had also been invited to Russia by the Kremlin Museum. Keenly aware that Cartier has created almost everything in terns of jewellery and that its achievements encompass all styles, museums are eager to organise historical exhibitions of our contribution to this field. We are expecting several hundred thousand visitors.
Bernard Fornas, CEO Cartier
