This category is essentially the sweet spot for fine watchmaking. In my two previous articles (see below) you could find value for money and take your first steps on the luxury ladder. But it is only really from around 10,000 Swiss francs upwards that you can start to enjoy the true qualities of the finest in-house movements in precious metal cases. Nevertheless, as this selection proves, brands are looking to make their prices competitive in this segment, too.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic: CHF 14,100
It’s the watch that set the lead where others followed, creating a whole new genre of timepieces. The Fifty Fathoms was the first modern diver’s watch in 1953 and is still a cornerstone of the brand’s collection nearly 65 years later. Its black dial with bold luminescent hour markers, black unidirectional turning bezel with luminescent dive time indicators and a water-resistant stainless-steel case has spawned myriad descendants. It is powered by the Blancpain in-house automatic calibre 1315 and comes with a sail canvas strap.
Bovet 19Thirty: CHF 16,800
The stainless-steel Bovet 19Thirty models were the first produced by the brand in the Dimier and Amadeo cases that did not use precious metals, making these watches accessible to a wider audience. A new movement was developed specifically for this collection. In keeping with the philosophy of the company’s owner, Pascal Raffy, who is a globe-trotting watch aficionado, the manually wound 15 ¾-line calibre 15BM04 offers a full seven days of power reserve. Wind it up on Christmas morning, therefore, and you won’t need to worry about winding again until the New Year!
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ceramic: CHF 15,900
The use of ceramic is nothing new in watchmaking, neither is the aesthetic of an all-black watch, but the ceramic version of the Laureato launched earlier this year is notable thanks to its finishing, which mixes the same brushed and polished surfaces that are found on the stainless-steel Laureato models. The entire frame of the watch is in ceramic, from the case to the signature octagonal bezel, the bracelet and the triple-folding clasp, and the look is completed by a black dial with a hobnail pattern. It is powered by the in-house self-winding calibre GP01800-00025 movement, which offers a power reserve of 54 hours and can be seen behind a grey-tinted sapphire crystal case back.
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date: CHF 13,500
This model is packed with features such as the flyback chronograph, panorama date and power reserve indicator. Its movement is typical of Glashütte with a three-quarter plate, swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism and exquisite finishing. But I chose this particular model for its aesthetics above everything else, since the blue SuperLuminova adds a wonderfully fresh touch to an otherwise classic watch.
Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium: CHF 18,900
If you’ll pardon the atrocious pun, you get a lot of bang for your buck with this model. Hublot puts the emphasis on practicality with its simple push-button operation for the second time zone hand and the brand’s patented “One Click” interchangeable strap system. The large 45mm diameter case ensures perfect legibility, while the use of lightweight titanium makes for a comfortable, lightweight fit on the wrist. Inside is Hublot’s in-house UNICO HUB1251 self-winding movement, which offers a respectable power reserve of 72 hours.
Louis Moinet Metropolis: CHF 32,000
The Metropolis made its debut at Baselworld this year and, as Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Ateliers Louis Moinet, said at the time, it is unlike anything the brand has ever done before. With its brand-new in-house movement, the stainless-steel version comes in just above our lower threshold at 10,500 Swiss francs, so I have chosen the red-gold version here for a touch of luxury at just over three times the price (32,000 Swiss francs).
