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GPHG - Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève
Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix - Spoilt for choice in the men’s category

Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix Spoilt for choice in the men’s category

There’s just a hint of understatement in the men’s category at the 2014 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, with brands restricted in the adornments allowed – both functional and decorative.

The regulations of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix clearly state that watches in the men’s category may not have any complications, although in this case a date display, power reserve indicator, moon phase or second time zone do not count as complications and they might in other circumstances. The fact that the organisers also place an upper limit of five carats of gem setting indicates that men are by no means averse to wearing gem-set timepieces, but that they belong in a different category, not to mention a different league in terms of price.

With brands taking these regulations into account, sometimes pushing their definition to the limit, the resulting selection for this year is highly eclectic. Starting with classic “three-handers” by the likes of Armin Strom, Bulgari, JeanRichard and Julien Coudray 1518, the selection runs the gamut from GMT pieces offered by DeWitt, Hautlence and Zenith to the models that group together combinations of different displays (the rules allow for a maximum of two), such as the Carl F. Bucherer Manero day-date with power reserve.

The line between what is a complication and what is merely a type of display starts to blur when one considers watches such as the Hermès Dressage L’Heure Masquée, whose discreet hiding of the hour hand on demand no doubt required considerable development, or the Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs, which combines two separate digital time zone indications with a retrograde minute scale.

A total of 38 entrants make this the most hotly-contested category in the competition, so the jury’s deliberations prior to the preselection of six models to go forward for the final vote in September take on an even greater importance in this category.

Click on the image above to see the photo gallery of our selection of watches in this category.

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The ARMIN STROM manufacture expresses the very substance of its founder’s legacy. Its guiding principle is that of reinterpreting watchmaking tradition. To this end, it applies the principle of...

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“Life is about moments”: with this motto as its signature, Baume & Mercier expresses its desire to design timeless watches that forever safeguard the emotion of shared moments.

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Breguet’s archives, kept in Switzerland and in Paris, record the developments that have sustained Breguet watchmaking for more than two centuries. The firm is committed to remaining ahead of its...

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Bulgari has its own clear definition of excellence, which involves the perfect balance between design, added-value, quality of its products and its worldwide service. In the case of Bulgari...

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Watches of technical perfection and beauty, through tradition and the force of innovation. Carl F. Bucherer is an independent Swiss watchmaker with expertise in the production of precious...

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Maison Chopard epitomises the alliance between watchmaking and jewellery. It has always known how to meet the expectations of its day, relying on four essential values: expertise, tradition,...

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Although the project was originally that of one man, the adventure is collective. Jérôme De Witt's view is that the past centuries hold abundant wealth – and that given the technological resources...

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Synonymous with sobriety and watchmaking excellence, H. Moser & Cie timepieces also contain highly technical movements. Keen to preserve the timeless elegance of its watches, the manufacture...

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Harry Winston’s commitment to quality and fine craftsmanship, in keeping with the finest traditions of Haute Horlogerie, remains the unmistakable signature of a rare degree of legitimacy in the...

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In less than ten years, Hautlence has demonstrated extraordinary technical capabilities for an emerging brand. The manufacture has always been keen to stand out from the crowd; very early on, it...

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“La Montre Hermès” has adopted an epicurean philosophy that values the creation of sober, contemporary timepieces.

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An elegant, outward-looking philosophy that dates back to the Age of Enlightenment is still at the heart of Jaquet Droz's identity. The fine and rare handcrafts practiced at the company’s workshops...

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You have an independent spirit, you long for authenticity and have a desire to live life to the fullest. The only real time is the time that you allocate to yourself, that you conquer and make...

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Ateliers Louis Moinet was born out of the passion of one man, and this is clearly to be seen in each of its creations. The Maison takes the concept of exclusivity to its height, producing only...

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True to its founding spirit, Louis Vuitton makes watches that combine excellence, innovation and originality for the benefit of people who love travel and adventure. The watchmakers of La Fabrique...

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The guiding philosophy of Speake-Marin is to create timepieces that symbolise durability in terms of both their technical qualities and their aesthetic appearance. The Manufacture is committed...

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Over 150 years of watchmaking savoir-faire and technical innovation have made TAG Heuer a global reference in avant-garde sports watches. As it tracked the rise of sports demanding increasingly...

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Each of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations is imbued with jewelry and watchmaking excellence, drawing inspiration from whether nature, couture or the imagination. Its creations evoke a timeless world of...

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Ever since it was founded, Zenith has been cultivating the ability to open up new horizons by assisting with some of the most remarkable human achievements.

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