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GPHG 2016 - The watch industry’s thousand and one nights

GPHG 2016 The watch industry’s thousand and one nights

While the 16th prize-giving ceremony of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève will last only one night, that of November 10th 2016 the men and women who have created some of the 72 pre-selected watches have in some cases spent a thousand and one nights on developing them.

Divided into 12 categories, these GPHG finalists do indeed tell a wealth of wonderful contemporary watchmaking tales. They are all presented in the catalog insert in this magazine, and this article highlights two watches per category, specifically chosen for their differences illustrating the thousand and one facets of the 12th Art, the art of time measurement.

The first standout feature takes the form of the first ‘victories’ achieved the three brands whose candidates have been chosen by the jury in half of the categories: Audemars Piguet, Bovet and Chopard. Hot on their heels are Bvlgari, Montblanc and Tudor, with five of their watches among the finalists. A fine token of recognition.

Ladies'
A meeting of exact opposites between the oval, black, zebra-striped and gemset Millenary by Audemars Piguet; and the round, pure, light and golden Lady Levity from Fabergé.

GPHG 2016 Dame

Ladie's High-Mech
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Color Blossom Spin Time with its bright colors and intensely animated dial makes a strong contrast with the Ulysse Nardin delicately openworked monochrome Tourbillon Squelette Pearl.

GPHG 2016 Haute mécanique pour dame

Men's
The gold 33 bis Quai des Bergues from the discreet Czapek Genève brand, graced with supremely refined slim hands sweeping over the white dial, is radically different from the robust steel and aluminum Heritage Black Bay by Tudor.

GPHG 2016 Homme

Chronograph
Flaunting a resolutely sporty design, the Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition from Chopard reflects a very different approach to the elaborate Haute Horlogerie attitude adopted by Louis Moinet which is celebrating its founder’s invention of the chronograph 200 years ago.

GPHG 2016 Chronographe

Tourbillon
The unclassifiable Ottantasei Flying Tourbillon in titanium from Bovet, which is all about transparency and the Pininfarina designer touch, could hardly be further removed from the style of the Esmeralda Tourbillon revisited by Girard-Perregaux for its 225th anniversary.

GPHG 2016 Tourbillon

Calendar
With its daringly minimalist understatement clothed in a deep shade of night, the Perpetual Calendar Endeavour Concept Funky Blue by H. Moser & Cie is light years away from the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual with its hyper-structured satellite-counter dial.

GPHG 2016 Calendrier

Travel Time
Whereas the 4910 Terrarum 110 Years Edition pocket watch by Montblanc depicts the world in color at the center of a white city disk, Manufacture Royale uses just four numerals on its 1770 Haute Voltige featuring a balance-wheel and bridges gliding above the monochrome dial.

GPHG 2016 Travel Time

Mechanical Exception
With its multiple shapes and sharp angles, along with a tone-on-tone dial bearing one solitary numeral, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is the world’s slimmest minute repeater, while the Monsieur de Chanel provides a distinctive vertical and jumping display of the hours, minutes and seconds, in white, black and pink.

GPHG 2016 Exception Mécanique

"Petite Aiguille"
While the Pilot Ton-Up by Zenith boasts an oversized crown, hands and predominantly slate gray numerals, the East West® Automatic Tiffany reverses time read-off on an extremely luminous dial framed by the only rectangular case of the entire 2016 selection.

GPHG 2016 Petite Aiguille

Sports
The highly distinctive shape of the Heuer Monza Chronograph by TAG Heuer draws the eye as much as its red central hand evoking the world of motorsports, while Eberhard gives a nod to scuba diving with its Scafograf 300 on which steel, white and yellow touches enliven its predominantly black shade.

GPHG 2016 Sports

Jewellery
The Princess Butterfly secret watch by Graff spread its dainty wings adorned with baguette-cut gemstones, whereas the Big Bang Impact Bang from Hublot asserts the power of its tourbillon imprisoned by a disruptive setting created by the random assembly of gemstone fragments.

GPHG 2016 Joaillerie

Artistic Crafts
The delightfully rounded Hermès Arceau Tigre testifies to expertise involving perfect harmony between the engraver and the enameling using the Email Ombrant (shaded enamel) technique; while the elegantly angular Piaget Protocole XXL "Secrets & Lights" Venise Micro-Mosaic is composed of 5,000 tiny glass tesserae.

GPHG 2016 Métiers d'Art

You can see all 72 finalists at a glance on our dedicated page, where you have two voting possibilities: one takes you to the official site gphg.org, where you can take part in the draw for the Public Prize and win a one-week MSC Yacht Club Mediterranean cruise for two courtesy of MSC Cruises. The other is for our informal poll for the favourite watches in each category – choose your favourite watch and you will instantly see whether your choice is in line with the majority of our readers.





 




 

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Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is one of the few independent family-owned watch businesses and has been based in Le Brassus, in Switzerland's Vallée de Joux region, at the heart of the fine watchmaking industry,...

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Bovet 1822

The Bovet Manufacture upholds the tradition of decorative art applied to finely cut and hand-painted dials, thus passing on the unrivalled knowhow that has been gracing the Firm’s collections and...

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Bulgari

Bulgari has its own clear definition of excellence, which involves the perfect balance between design, added-value, quality of its products and its worldwide service. In the case of Bulgari...

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Chanel

Through her life, Gabrielle Chanel embodied strength, character and a fierce desire for independence. Maison CHANEL, avant-garde and constantly innovative, has come down through the decades to...

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Chopard

Maison Chopard epitomises the alliance between watchmaking and jewellery. It has always known how to meet the expectations of its day, relying on four essential values: expertise, tradition,...

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Czapek

Czapek & Cie. harks back to the origins of one of the watch industry’s most prestigious names, which was born from the watchmaking skills of two Polish émigrés who sought refuge in Switzerland...

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Eberhard & Co.

For almost 30 years, Eberhard & Co. has been synonymous with passion, innovation and attention to detail and design. These values have defined the Maison ever since it was founded.

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Fabergé

Fabergé delights in producing the unexpected for its timepieces, much like the famous Imperial Easter Eggs for which the house is famous.

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Girard-Perregaux

Ever since 1791, Girard-Perregaux has been pursuing its course in the best tradition of Fine Watchmaking. The Maison’s history has been characterised by legendary timepieces that combine...

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Graff

Graff watches capture all the finesse of the firm’s jewellery heritage.

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H. Moser & Cie

Synonymous with sobriety and watchmaking excellence, H. Moser & Cie timepieces also contain highly technical movements. Keen to preserve the timeless elegance of its watches, the manufacture...

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Hermès

“La Montre Hermès” has adopted an epicurean philosophy that values the creation of sober, contemporary timepieces.

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Hublot

From the outset, Hublot has embodied design and innovation that differ markedly from the established watchmaking order. With the impetus provided by Jean-Claude Biver, by 2004 these values had...

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Louis Moinet

Ateliers Louis Moinet was born out of the passion of one man, and this is clearly to be seen in each of its creations. The Maison takes the concept of exclusivity to its height, producing only...

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Louis Vuitton

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Manufacture Royale

With part of its history in the eighteenth century and the rest in the twenty-first, Manufacture Royale is committed to combining the best attributes of both.

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Montblanc

Montblanc has always been committed to the same values: the pursuit of quality and craftsmanship.

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Piaget

One hundred and forty years’ worth of uninterrupted history have allowed Piaget to forge its unique jewellery and watchmaking expertise. The Brand is a genuine Fine Watchmaking manufacture that...

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TAG Heuer

Over 150 years of watchmaking savoir-faire and technical innovation have made TAG Heuer a global reference in avant-garde sports watches. As it tracked the rise of sports demanding increasingly...

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Tiffany & Co.

Known for its prowess in the world of jewellery, Tiffany has been a leading name in watchmaking throughout its history.

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Ulysse Nardin

Combining cutting-edge technology with a unique heritage from marine chronometry is what sets Ulysse Nardin apart from other brands.

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Zenith

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