SalonQP 2016 WT @ QP
The Saatchi Gallery in London will be the stage for some major new watch launches later this week. Here is a sneak preview of some of the watches that will be shown in London.
Regional watch shows like the SIAR in Mexico and SalonQP in London are in rude health compared with behemoths like Baselworld, where rumour has it that the unappealing white canvas of the “Palace” – the inappropriate tent that housed the finest in independent watchmaking – is unlikely to be brought out of storage next year. These local shows are a meeting point for true watch aficionados and brands are increasingly recognising this and adapting their product launch schedules accordingly. After seeing a handful of new watches launched at the SIAR in Mexico last month, there will be some major new launches in London this week. Some will only be revealed on the opening day, but here we can already offer a selection of other highlights that will be on display in London.
The darling of luxury watch crowdfunding will be presenting several new models at SalonQP. The Quai des Bergues 25bis offers a rare versatility in luxury watches, being designed to be equally at home when worn with a formal business suit or a more sports-casual dress code, thanks to its domed dial with sunbrushed finish and blued hands. The Quai des Bergues 27bis takes the black theme in the collection a step further with the introduction of an ultra-hard ADLC coating on the titanium case. Last but not least, Czapek will be presenting the first models in its new ladies’ collection.
DeWitt Academia Skeleton
UK fans of fun complications will have the first opportunity to see the Academia Skeleton model which was first presented earlier this year. Besides the gold case, the minimalist open-worked design of the movement and its luxury finishing, those examining the watch will be instantly captivated by its semi-circular retrograde small seconds dial. The ingeniously-designed hand on this scale does not simply move back and forth in the usual retrograde manner, it also extends and retracts instantaneously to align with the correct level of the two-level seconds graduations. It’s such a delight to watch that you can easily forget about reading the time, so make sure you don’t miss all the other brands at the show!
This historic name was revived on the personal initiative of Chopard co-CEO Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At the moment it only has one watch to show, but what a watch it is! The FB 1 chronometer packs 1,120 components into the hand-wound movement inside the unusual octagonal case (which is designed to mimic the aesthetics of a marine chronometer produced by Ferdinand Berthoud). In addition to the low-frequency tourbillon and ingenious fusée-chain constant force system, Brits will no doubt appreciate the power reserve display that is specific to the FB 1, since it is inspired by a mechanism developed by legendary British watchmaker George Daniels.
The brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds celebrates its 225th anniversary in style by showcasing its Place Girardet collection in London. This collection of 225 unique piece watches includes one watch for every year of the company’s existence, confirmed by a small gold plaque on each model with the year engraved on it. Each model also has a unique combination of decorations. The movement, however, remains consistent throughout the collection, since it was developed especially for this anniversary series. The new GP01800-0005 automatic mechanical calibre constitutes an evolution of the manufacture movement GP01800. in this new development, with completely revamped architecture and design, Girard-Perregaux has moved the variable inertia Microvar balance on the dial side, creating an unprecedented animation. The brand will also be showing its Laureato collection, which was reintroduced this year in in its original design.
Montblanc has come up with the perfect watch for SalonQP in the form of a 4810 Orbis Terrarum Great Britain Special Edition. For this very limited series of just five watches, the colour gradient on the day/night disc that is overlaid over the map of the northern hemisphere has been replaced by a union flag that is displayed during daytime hours on the world time display and a dark blue for the night-time hours. The special edition will be available exclusively from Montblanc’s Bond Street store and is priced at £5,600.
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