Each brand has its own DNA and positioning, yet they collaborate and leverage synergies within the Group. For example, Zenith supplies Elite and El Primero movements to all the other brands (except Daniel Roth). TAG Heuer and Bulgari also manufacture certain components—areas in which they have particular expertise—for other maisons. L’Epée 1839 creates mechanical objects for Louis Vuitton and Tiffany (see the interview with its CEO Arnaud Nicolas here).
Moreover, the brands benefit from the strength of the world’s leading luxury group to secure prime retail locations worldwide. As a result, almost all presentations were held in the majestic, fully renovated palazzi of Bulgari, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany, located side by side on this ultra-chic Milanese avenue.
Beyond the more than fifty new timepieces previewed exclusively to a selection of international media, this highly sought-after event also provides an opportunity to meet the teams behind these fascinating brands and better understand their approaches. Hublot CEO Julien Tornare granted us an exclusive interview on this occasion. Speaking about the current economic environment, Jean-Christophe Babin illustrated the situation with a nod to Lake Geneva: “We are like sailors on a lake with very little wind—we need to tack well to stay at the head of the fleet.” Most of these launches are detailed on our WorldTempus website; here are the key takeaways.
Ladies First: Bulgari and Tiffany
Reaffirming their status as the Group’s jeweller-watchmakers, these two luxury giants presented feminine novelties. With women accounting for two-thirds of its watch and jewellery sales, Bulgari introduced a Tubogas high-jewellery cuff as well as its first Milanese mesh model, the secret watch Maglia Milanese Monete. Its mastery of movement miniaturisation is showcased by the in-house Piccolissimo BVP100 calibre (13.50 mm diameter, 2.50 mm thick, weighing just 1.9 g, with 102 components).
At Tiffany, celebrations marked the 100th anniversary of the Timer with a magnificent limited edition of 60 platinum chronographs featuring the El Primero calibre and a customised rotor evoking the iconic Bird on the Rock, along with a lacquered dial adorned with diamond-set indices in the brand’s signature turquoise blue. New high-jewellery Eternity pieces completed the presentation, enriched by an exhibition of 28 items from the Tiffany Museum (which houses 300 watches and 6,000 objects in total). Sometimes referred to as “the best-kept secret in watchmaking,” Tiffany’s horological history dates back to 1847: the first American chronograph in 1866, a watch manufacture in Geneva in 1874, enamelling workshops in 1878, and numerous awards at world exhibitions. Reconnecting with this heritage is a genuine need, and the brand’s horological revival is well underway. Executives nevertheless stress one key point: “We are jewellers, and all our watches are inspired by our jewellery.”
A High-Flying Trilogy at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta and Louis Vuitton are all positioned in high watchmaking, with every piece created within this integrated manufacture of 200 people, regularly honoured at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
The result of five years of work, the Louis Vuitton novelties unveiled at the event further reinforce the brand’s ultra-high-end positioning, illustrated by exceptional mastery of the métiers d’art and highly accomplished watchmaking expertise. In addition to the extremely seductive Tambour Convergence Guillochée with double aperture, six new Escale models showcased complications and decorative crafts with dazzling talent. Case complications with ornamental stone rings, minute repeaters, twin-time displays or worldtimers indicating half-hours, Grand Feu enamel—one with a central tourbillon—only the wealthiest collectors can hope to wear one of these highly exclusive timepieces, priced between CHF 50,000 and CHF 650,000.
The brand’s redeployment continues step by step, this time with an ultra-thin skeletonised watch featuring spectacular finishes, with annual production expected not to exceed around twenty pieces.
More accessible, Gérald Genta introduces a superb new duo in white and rose gold to celebrate the Geneva spirit cherished by its founder. The brand also secured the Geneva name for its new collection—which had not been protected. Elegance and design define the Geneva line, with its cushion-shaped case, textured dial and Elite calibre (Zenith).
Zenith Elevates the DEFY
The DEFY family will celebrate its 60th anniversary in 2029 and was relaunched in 2022 under the DEFY Skyline name. Zenith reaffirmed its iconic status while significantly modernising the line, notably with skeleton versions introduced in 2023. Two new skeleton models now complete the DEFY Skyline range: a rose-gold tourbillon with a beautifully integrated bracelet, and a black ceramic three-hand version with an openworked dial in gold tones and striking contrasts.
Its high-frequency El Primero calibre enables it to display the world’s only permanent 1/10th-of-a-second indicator. An automatic chronograph (naturally El Primero) in black ceramic and two unisex DEFY Skyline 36 mm steel models (one gem-set) complete this six-piece DEFY lineup, along with a DEFY Revival A3643 automatic 37 mm with a more vintage design.
Chronographs, TAG Heuer’s Spearhead
Accompanied by its Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck and an exhibition (also shown at Watches & Wonders) dedicated to the brand’s rich contribution to the history of sports timekeeping since 1880, TAG Heuer showcased its chronograph expertise within the Carrera collection. With a reduced diameter (41 mm) and increased power reserve (80 hours), the new Carrera chronograph featuring the in-house TH20-01 calibre is offered with midnight blue, black or highly original teal-green dials.
Following the success of the Carrera Skipper, TAG Heuer now introduces the Carrera Seafarer, a subtly vintage-styled chronograph displaying tidal hours. In the high-watchmaking segment, TAG Heuer boldly asserts its avant-garde ambitions with the first Carrera split-seconds chronograph, housing the movement’s 350 components in a 42 mm titanium case. Particularly refined, the high-frequency (5 Hz) titanium calibre features sophisticated hand-finishing. The brand also promises an exceptionally innovative new chronograph for Watches & Wonders.
Hublot in Comeback Mode
In a fireworks display of colours and materials, Hublot continues to surprise while asserting its often underestimated watchmaking expertise. All collections benefit from this, starting with its icon, the Big Bang. The Big Bang Original Unico is available in four chronograph versions powered by the in-house Unico calibre, distinguished by five patents. The 43 mm case comes in black ceramic, titanium, titanium-ceramic, and King Gold ceramic.
This Big Bang Original family will be expanded at Watches & Wonders with an entirely new, evolving Big Bang collection. Meanwhile, the Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang (tonneau-shaped) models stand out with a new charcoal blue colour—both cheerful and warm. A first chromatic innovation also appears in the Classic Fusion line, whose three titanium models (33, 42 and 45 mm) adopt a sage green hue.
Hublot wouldn’t be Hublot without collaborations with artistic and sporting partners. Three limited editions will appeal to fans of the UEFA Europa League (Classic Fusion), Samuel Ross (Big Bang Unico), and above all Novak Djokovic. The world number one even inspired a trilogy based on an original and playful concept: the Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition in composite material is offered in the three colours of tennis court surfaces—blue for hard courts, orange for clay, and green for grass. The number of pieces in each edition corresponds to Djokovic’s number of tournament victories on each surface. Should he win more, new collectors will be able to acquire additional pieces!
Next major launch series for most of these brands: Watches & Wonders, April 14–20, 2026!
