RALPH LAUREN GUILLOCHÉ CRAFTSMANSHIP
One of the most significant of the traditional watchmaking art forms that gives these timepieces their unmatched sophistication, is the delicate engraver's art known as guilloché.
Guilloché, also known as engine-turning, is the art of using a special machine known as a rose engine, which a master engraver utilizes to create decorative patterns of great intricacy and regularity. Authentic guilloché work is done by a skilled artisan who must practice for many years to perfect his craft.
Genuine guilloché has been historically found only on the metal dials and cases of the finest quality timepieces from the most renowned watch maisons. First pioneered in the 18th century, engine turning is both time consuming and unforgiving. The piece to be engraved is carefully mounted in the rose engine, and then, guide templates –known as rosettes, from which the rose engine's name is derived –are used to help direct the engraving across the watch dial or case to be decorated. The speed of rotation and amount of pressure are both manually controlled. An absolutely steady hand and total concentration are essential to ensure regularity of the pattern and correct depth of the engraving. The artisan producing the engraving observes the process very closely –typically, through a powerful magnifying glass or a low power binocular microscope. A momentary lapse in attention may produce visible flaws, causing the work in progress to be rejected.
The art of guilloché is rare. Only a few skilled artisans remain who carry on this Old World craft, and the rose engines themselves have not been produced since the middle of the last century. The rose engine used to create the “barleycorn” pattern on the dials and bezels for the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique and Ralph Lauren Sporting Chronograph watches is a museum piece in itself, dating back to the late 1800's. Those few individuals with the patience, dexterity, and dedication necessary to master the craft are as rare a breed as the rose engines themselves. While at one time guilloché was a thriving art, with over a thousand craftsmen in the Swiss Jura alone, today in Switzerland a mere four guillocheurs can be found who are still full time practitioners of their craft.
The beauty of guilloché guide a la main (hand-guided guilloché) is truly unique. Though it is often imitated by metal stamping, an experienced eye can clearly distinguish authentic guilloché. Stamping flattens the crystalline structure of the metal as the impression is struck, creating a dull surface, but genuine guilloché exposes the grain of the metal and leaves it intact. The result is an almost silken brilliance that cannot be duplicated by other means.
Ralph Lauren watches decorated with guilloché feature a distinct pattern. In the central portion of the dial, a spiral “barleycorn” guilloché pattern is executed, with 80 waves gently snailing around, in a series of compact spirals from the outer to the inner circle. The central intersections are so fine as to be invisible to the naked eye. The Roman numerals are delineated with a subtly applied guilloché track while the “barleycorn” pattern on the dial is repeated on the bezel as well –an especially demanding execution, as the guillocheur must follow a surface with a complex convex curve.
The result is a timepiece of distinctive elegance. In preserving and presenting the art of authentic guilloché, the Ralph Lauren watches evoke the rich history of some of the finest techniques of traditional watchmaking.
Ralph Lauren watches featuring guilloché craftsmanship include:
- Slim Classique 42mm & 38mm watches in Rose Gold, White Gold
- Slim Classique 42mm watch in Platinum
- Slim Classique 42mm & 38mm watches in Rose Gold & White Gold with brilliant-cut diamonds
- Slim Classique 42mm & 38mm watches in White Gold with baguette-cut diamonds
- 867 Watch in White Gold
- Sporting Chronograph 45mm & 39mm watches in Stainless Steel
The Slim Classique and 867 watches feature the manual-winding caliber RL430 made by Piaget for Ralph Lauren, with a power reserve of 40 hours.
The Sporting Chronograph watches feature the automatic caliber RL750 made by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren, with a power reserve of 48 hours.
Both movements are decorated with vertical ‘Côtes de Geneve' and ‘Perlage'.
