19 September 2014 Insects and other strange little creatures
11 September 2014 Flowers in the watchmaking garden
3 September 2014 Three tough black sports watches
27 August 2014 The Year of the Horse and Equestrian Sport
21 August 2014 6 colourful men's watches for the summer
14 August 2014 World time on your wrist
6 August 2014 An invitation to travel
30 July 2014 Deeper and deeper
23 July 2014 New names and old favourites
16 July 2014 Fashion that never goes out of fashion
14 July 2014 Gazing into the whites of the hours
9 July 2014 Ladies’ watches in technicolour
2 July 2014 Four GMT watches for your travels
26 June 2014 Calibre de Cartier Diver
25 June 2014 Corum Admiral's Cup One 45 Tides
25 June 2014 Messing about on the water with regatta watches
21 June 2014 A new column
GMT watches Four GMT watches for your travels
In the second instalment of our Summer Watches series, we a take a look at a selection of the latest innovative GMT timepieces from Patek Philippe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Hautlence.
The abbreviation for the time zone of the prime meridian, GMT, has also been appropriated to stand as the abbreviation for timepieces that display a second time zone. For the purposes of this review, we take this definition literally and only examine watches that show two different time zones. In a second article we will come back to world time watches, which are capable of showing multiple time zones, or indeed all of the world’s time zones, at a glance.
For a Patek Philippe timepiece to be travel friendly, it needs more than just a second time zone indication. In the new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, which houses an entirely new movement, the choice of case material is equally important. Since the precious metals usually employed in Patek Philippe timepieces may attract unwanted attention in certain tourist destinations, this new model in the Nautilus collection comes in a rare stainless-steel case that is water resistant to 120 metres and cleverly houses the correctors for the dual time zone in its left-hand “hinge”, which was specifically redesigned for this purpose.
The new calibre CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement combines a chronograph with an intuitive second time zone display. The hour hand of the second time zone is housed on the same axis as that for the home time hour and has the same shape but for the fact that it is skeletonised. Unlike many other GMT watches, the second time zone can therefore remain discreetly hidden until it is needed.
Here and there
For its first-ever dual time model, Van Cleef & Arpels offers a more poetic interpretation of travel and time in its Pierre Arpels “Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs” piece. The French name means simply “Time here & time elsewhere”, a concept that is displayed both simply and elegantly by means of two hour discs set at either end of a retrograde minute scale, all of which occupies only half of the dial on this 42mm piece in white gold.
Van Cleef & Arpels developed this new calibre, which is visible through a transparent sapphire crystal, in conjunction with Agenhor. Its two jumping-hour discs are synchronised with the retrograde minutes hand so that all three indications change instantaneously on the hour. A platinum micro-rotor ensures the self-winding function and keeps the case elegantly thin.
Z for Zalium
The latest model in Harry Winston’s Project Z series, which uses the brand’s exclusive ZaliumTM alloy (a zirconium-based alloy that is lighter and harder than titanium), also incorporates an innovative second time zone display. The 281 components in the calibre HW3502 movement of the Project Z8 work together to power an off-centre hour and minute display, pointer date, day and night indicator and the signature Shuriken movement operation indicator, as well as a retrograde dual time display that can be corrected in both directions.
In a style typical of the brand, the different time indications have a three-dimensional design, with seven superimposed applied elements used for the reference time indication and a further five interlocking elements used for the GMT display. The Project Z8 is a limited edition of 300 pieces.
For the first collection under its new “Signature” range, which is designed to offer a more accessible alternative to its manufacture movements, Hautlence has turned to Soprod to supply its first-ever externally sourced self-winding movement. As a result, the brand has been able to introduce new functions, such as the disc-based dual time display found in the new Destination collection.
Four different models are available, using variations of steel or titanium cases to frame dials that reflect the brand’s architectural DNA and three-dimensional design. This involves a base dial covering the movement which is in turn overlaid with a sapphire intermediate dial on which the Arabic numerals appear to float in space. Note the unique “Horlogerie Suisse” inscription on the dial, with which Hautlence aims to differentiate itself from the Swiss Made, stressing that all parts are developed, produced, decorated and assembled in Switzerland, of which 90% is done in the brand’s home canton of Neuchâtel.
Harry Winston’s commitment to quality and fine craftsmanship, in keeping with the finest traditions of Haute Horlogerie, remains the unmistakable signature of a rare degree of legitimacy in the...Find out more
In less than ten years, Hautlence has demonstrated extraordinary technical capabilities for an emerging brand. The manufacture has always been keen to stand out from the crowd; very early on, it...Find out more
Patek Philippe enjoys outstanding renown and rare prestige, due to the constancy with which the Manufacture has applied its philosophy of excellence ever since it was founded.Find out more
Each of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations is imbued with jewelry and watchmaking excellence, drawing inspiration from whether nature, couture or the imagination. Its creations evoke a timeless world of...Find out more