The road to Opus 14 – Part 1

Image
The road to Opus 14 – Part 1 - Harry Winston
In the first of a series of articles covering the Harry Winston Opus series in the build-up to the launch of the Opus 14, we look at the very first models that started the Opus Series by Harry Winston.

Designers and movement constructors are constantly working together with brands in the watch industry. But this is often at the service of the brand, working to a specific brief at the end of which the parties involved may or not be given due credit, depending on the agreements in place. The Harry Winston Opus series is remarkable in that it actively seeks the cooperation of the stars of the world of watchmaking to create highly individualistic pieces that manage to capture the essence of the watchmaker or designer in question, while keeping the unmistakable traits of the Harry Winston brand.

It all started back in 2001 with the Opus One, a collaboration with François-Paul Journe. The Opus series arrived on the watchmaking scene with a fanfare as not just one but three different watches with three different movements were presented, each incorporating a world first in watchmaking.

Harry Winston

The five-day automatic was equipped with the first self-winding movement that could guarantee a high level of precision over the full 120 hours of its power reserve, even if the watch was not being worn; the tourbillon model was the first of its kind to incorporate a constant-force remontoir and the star of the three, the resonance chronometer, contained not one but two independent movements whose balance wheels could be positioned close enough together (0.4mm apart to be precise) to absorb each other’s energy and thus start vibrating at exactly the same frequency, provided that the difference in their rate is less than 10 seconds per day.

With two independent movements, the Opus One Resonance Chronometer can display two individual time zones, each aligned symmetrically on either side of the dial with its own small seconds indicator. The hours and minutes are set by a crown hidden discreetly in the case at 12 o’clock, which also winds both movements, while a separate crown at 4 o’clock is used to reset the twin small seconds hands. A sectorial power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock indicates how much of the 40-hour power reserve remains. Harry Winston’s imprint on these first models is as clear as the horological content is astounding: the precious metal platinum was chosen for the cases, whose design unmistakably recalls the signature arch of the Harry Winston store on New York’s Fifth Avenue.

Harry Winston

The same 38mm round platinum case was used for the Opus Two a year later, which was conceived in conjunction with Antoine Preziuso. Two different movements were used for a total limited edition of 22 pieces. Both had tourbillons, Antoine Preziuso’s mysterious winding system and an impressive 110-hour power reserve, differing only by the very significant addition of Harry Winston’s patented HW100 perpetual calendar module on the reverse side of one of the models, with its retrograde indications visible through a secret hinged case back.

Hary Winston



The importance of the hidden winding system becomes apparent when you take a look at the gorgeous open working and decoration of the movement. Hand-bevelled edges and mirror-polished surfaces abound, while the bridges carry a stunning hand-engraved sunray pattern that was developed specifically for the Opus Two model.

Winding the watch using the crown appears to have no visible effect when viewed from the dial side, yet through the sapphire crystal case back, which is dominated by an almost solid main plate, the individual elements of the mysterious winding system are revealed and their complete chain of operation can be followed.

The standards for the Harry Winston Opus Series had been set.

Visit the new Harry Winston Opus website for more information on the complete Harry Winston Opus Series and the build-up to the Opus 14 launch.

Featured brand