A l'Emeraude Voutilainen: Misleading simplicity
Don't trust what you see. This Voutilainen timepiece, a GPHG candidate, is all about beauty and not at all plain. Here is the watch whose brand works hand in hand with the A l'Emeraude boutique.
Once again, a watch by Kari Voutilainen has entered the final phase of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. This 28SC is a contestant in the Men's Watch category and, as always with his production, it has many things to show for itself. First of all, Kari Voutilainen, the man. A discreet, unassuming person, he's always on the breech, be it developping, working on the bench or promoting his work worldwide. Then there's that movement, made in the workshops of Môtiers, a village near Fleurier, where the Finn has long settled. It features a double impulse wheel escapemement designed by Kari Voutilainen, and is entirely (and magnificently) finished by hand. The dial is another strongpoint. Made of solid silver, it's engine-turned, which is another of Voutilainen's specialities. Comblémine, their manufacturing facility, is a major proponent of this type of fine engraving. The piece in play only features two patterns, unassuming and with only a slight 3D effect, with a blue and silver livery. Finally, the 38.5mm case is made of titanium, which is not unheard of for Voutilainen, but still rare. It offers great lightness and comfort, and this tough metal has been thoroughly polished, which is no easy trick. It has a new, thinner, wider crown for additional winding comfort and the legendary drop-shaped lugs have been elongated.
Voutilainen 28SC © Voutilainen
The case is 13.3 mm thick, which is more than the usual on this long-standing model. The culprit is the central second. The 28 line normally has a small second at 6 o'clock. The SC movement's been altered to fit in additionnal gears to make the change happen, which explains the difference in height. But it goes unnoticed as the caseband remains the same. The thickness difference is absorbed by a different position of the sapphire back, which is hidden into the wrist.
This SC calibre is therefore a small variation on the existing ones. The central seconds bridge lies on top of the rest without changing its curves and appeal. As a matter of fact, the magic is intact there. Magic, because for a watchmaking fan, a Voutilainen movement is always a sight for a sore eye. The ample shape of the bridges, the meticulous bevelling, the surface finishings, the colours, the invisible operations, it all boils down to beautiful. Especially the transversal balance bridge. A mainstay of the 28 calibers, it's long, thin and its entire tubular surface is gorgeously polished. A true marvel.