Hands on: Militare Alpini IRM

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Hands on: Militare Alpini IRM - Anonimo
3 minutes read
It’s not necessary to have the physique of a special forces soldier – or the tastes of one – to appreciate this military-inspired watch. It actually wears pretty well on a woman’s wrist.

Let’s get things straight: this limited edition Militare Alpini PRI (for Power Reserve Indicator) is a tribute to the 4th regiment of the Italian Alpine reconnaissance corps, with whom I have nothing at all in common. And, in the interests of full disclosure, I didn’t test this watch in a hostile mountain environment, while pitting myself against the forces of nature, as the soldiers who inspired this watch undoubtedly do. I wore it over the course of a few days, while going about my daily activities, which generally feature a minimal amount of hand-to-hand combat, and a fair amount of office work, shopping and driving. The only marginally challenging terrain I encountered was during my walks in the Jura with my German Shepherd dog, plus one motorbike ride, all in mild weather.

So... why did I choose to test this watch? I’m glad you asked. It was because, when it landed on the editor’s desk, I really liked the look of it. I like big watches, and despite the “Militare” in the name – which might have put me off – this Alpini PRI with its white strap and indices is probably the most feminine watch Anonimo make. It’s paradoxical, in a way, because it’s supposed to bring to mind the white winter uniforms of the Alpine soldiers (the companion model in khaki matches their summer gear).

Another big plus is the bronze case. I don’t much care for yellow gold, and I never wear any, but the warm glow and matt lustre of the bronze – a special nickel-free alloy that Anonimo has enriched with zinc – is an interesting alternative to the silver-coloured metals I generally wear, and it goes well with them. Bronze inevitably develops a patina and its appearance changes over time, which makes every watch increasingly unique as it ages, an advantage that collectors are not the only ones to appreciate. In three weeks, however, I noticed no discernible change, apart from a very slight darkening of the case band.

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The icing on the cake, for me, was the atypical numbering – 12, 04 and 08 – on the elegant and uncluttered bronze dial, giving an unusual pyramidal approach to reading the time. This is no doubt intended to amplify Anonimo’s emblem of the Matterhorn – another symbol of the brand’s dual Swiss/Italian heritage. But for me, it’s the unconventional originality of the layout that appeals.

So, after I had been won over by the powerful and substantial aesthetic of the Militare Alpini PRI, what was it like to wear? With its 43.4 mm case diameter and depth of 14.5 mm, you don’t exactly forget you’re wearing it. While it’s not heavy, it nevertheless lets you know it’s there, and it’s a good idea to keep the strap nice and tight, to avoid it slipping around on the wrist. The watch is driven by the manually-wound ETA 7001 movement, equipped with an additional power reserve module (signalled by a red indicator at 9 o’clock). The watch is wound via the crown at 12 o’clock, nestled between the lugs, which is a feature of the Militare collection. You have to take the watch off to wind it, but it’s easy enough to do: you simply press on the adjustable hinges to access the crown. The hinges are repositioned with a click of the patented mechanism, which ensures water resistance up to 120 metres.

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This Militare Alpini PRI is limited to 97 pieces. It also exists in a chronograph version, with the same choice of colours – white and khaki – and also in a limited edition. The Militare collection includes a range of automatic models, in steel, bronze, or black DLC-treated steel, with black, blue and bronze dials. They also come with small seconds and date functions. The chronograph models have the same case and dial configurations.

Don’t miss Olivier Müller’s real-life test of the Anonimo Nautilo, coming out in a few days. Watch this space...

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