The catalogue of typical Cartier shapes is historically made up of square, rectangular, cushion- and tonneau-shaped cases. When, in 2007, the company announced its biggest ever launch of a round watch, it wasn’t just any kind of round. The name, the shape and the extraordinary versatility of the Ballon Bleu set it apart from all other circular watches. In fact, it has become one of the most significant collections Cartier has ever developed. The Ballon Bleu continues to rise, embracing new complications and innovative variations. How can a such an apparently simple watch have achieved such a triumphant trajectory?
Its shape is reminiscent of a hot air balloon. The idea of a large circle held by slender threads was the image that governed its creation and launch. Why “blue”? Perhaps because of its mellifluous sound. In any case, the Ballon Bleu has the most poetic name of all the Cartier ranges. The concept is supported by meticulous design.
Seen from above, the case is round, the lugs are short and the bezel is generously convex. The crown is protected by a slender bridge that protrudes from the caseband, its gentle bump mirrored in the guilloché pattern in the centre of the dial. But the Ballon Bleu is more than just a circle. You have to turn it over to see the full effect. In profile its graceful lenticular form looks like a perfectly smooth pebble. The crystal and bezel form an unbroken curve that continues onto the caseback, which is curved in exactly the same way. The Ballon Bleu is symmetrical in three dimensions, taking inspiration from some of the most ancient aesthetic codes.
These symmetries result in a watch that rests easily on the wrist. Its gentle contours follow the lines of the arm. Most watches that aim for ergonomic comfort follow the curves of the wrist. The Ballon Bleu does the opposite. From above, the trajectory of the watch’s profile follows that of the arm. From the other side, its convex back nestles naturally between the wrist bones: counter-intuitive, perhaps, but astonishingly effective. When you put it on, it all becomes clear.
This comfort in wear has a second advantage, which is a large part of the Ballon Bleu’s success. Even in larger sizes it fits a wide range of wrists. The Ballon Bleu does not overhang the edge of the arm. It doesn’t slip. It doesn’t catch on your sleeve. It remains in place, whatever its diameter. And this aspect is the key to its ability to embrace an unparalleled range of variations. The Ballon Bleu is fundamentally a unisex watch, its bezel providing a generous canvas for gem-setting. And the range of diameters and styles has naturally invited a wide range of complications.
The simpler versions make up the majority of the catalogue. Fitted with an automatic movement, the Ballon Bleu exists in steel, gold, and steel and gold, with the option in each case of a fine leather strap or a bracelet in the same metal as the watch, in a choice of 36, 39, 40, 42, 44 and 46 mm diameters.
Three models stand out. The Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon was the first watch to contain a Cartier manufacture complication movement certified with the Geneva Hallmark. Then, in 2009, Cartier chose the Ballon Bleu as the vehicle for its ID One, its first concept watch, the culmination of several technological advances that had never been seen before in the watch industry. But the most intriguing version is probably the Ballon Bleu Extra Flat. Rather than the usual 13 mm, this watch is just 7.05 mm deep. How did Cartier manage to halve the height while remaining faithful to the watch’s identity? In fact, a known feature of three-dimensional constructions is that they retain their personality even when they are foreshortened. This flexibility is a hallmark of many of the most successful designs.
