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Chanel - Calibre 3 debuts in the Boy∙Friend Skeleton

Chanel Calibre 3 debuts in the Boy∙Friend Skeleton

Chanel unveils its third in-house calibre.

When Chanel presented its first in-house mechanical watch movement just two years ago, it was a double first for the house. This Calibre 1, with its jumping hour and retrograde minutes display, was presented in the first-ever Chanel watch designed specifically for men. The appropriately named “Monsieur” came in a brand-new 40mm diameter round case in beige or white gold that was specifically designed to accommodate the new movement.

The second in-house movement presented by Chanel was the Calibre 2, which was first seen last year in the Première Squelette Camélia model that celebrated the 30th anniversary of Chanel’s watch production. This movement was resolutely feminine, with form trumping function, since the idea was to present a layered movement with petals that depicted the camelia flower so beloved of Mademoiselle Chanel.

Calibre 3 debuts in the Boy∙Friend Skeleton

Components of the watch © Chanel

Like its immediate predecessor, the Calibre 3 is a skeletonised movement. It brings added value to the ambiguous and androgynous Boy∙Friend watch with the first skeletonised design in this collection. As with any mechanical movement used in a Chanel watch, whether in-house or otherwise, the Calibre 3 is beholden to the overall aesthetics of the watch and was therefore designed to blend seamlessly with the rectangular case of the Boy∙Friend watch. As a result, and unlike many other “haute horlogerie” movements, there is no profusion of mirror polishing or other meticulous hand finishing on this calibre. That does not mean, however, that this movement did not pose a technical challenge to Chanel. In fact, the combination of the black ADLC coating on the skeletonised bridges and the beige-gold galvanic coating on the edges to mirror the aesthetics of the case was particularly difficult.

Calibre 3 debuts in the Boy∙Friend Skeleton

Making-of Calibre 3 © Chanel

Even the skeletonised components have been designed to serve form rather than function. The actual bridges on the movement are found at the back, virtually concealed by a layer of interlinked circles with the contrasting black and gold finish. The movement is manually wound, which means that there is no oscillating mass to obscure the skeletonised design, and the functions are kept to the strict minimum of hours and minutes with small seconds, displayed by beige-gold coloured hands. A single fixed-clamp barrel houses a mainspring that drives a variable-inertia balance with its own anti-shock system and guarantees at least 55 hours of power reserve.

Calibre 3 debuts in the Boy∙Friend Skeleton

Boy∙Friend Skeleton © Chanel

The standard Boy∙Friend skeleton in gold is priced at 36,500 euros and a model with a diamond-set bezel is available for 42,500 euros.

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Through her life, Gabrielle Chanel embodied strength, character and a fierce desire for independence. Maison CHANEL, avant-garde and constantly innovative, has come down through the decades to become an unmistakable symbol of distinction, elegance and refinement.

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