The birth of the Monsieur de Chanel collection in 2016 coincided with the creation of Chanel’s first in-house movement: the Calibre 1. This self-winding mechanical movement, with instantaneous jumping hour and 240° retrograde minute complications, can be found inside the majority of watches in this men’s collection. It has the longest power reserve – 72 hours – of any of Chanel’s watches, and it’s water resistant to a depth of 30 metres.
2020 is set to be a year of renewal and bold innovation for the maison. After using materials such as beige gold, white gold, platinum and ceramic for its cases, along with enamel, ceramic, steel and opal for the dials, Chanel continues to challenge traditional gender boundaries. This latest proposal adorns men’s watches with an element generally reserved for women. The Monsieur de Chanel collection has completely changed direction, by setting this latest piece with diamonds. And not just a few. A total of 288 baguette-cut diamonds lend their lustre to this 20-piece limited edition watch. The 40 mm white gold case is set with 66 diamonds (~3.02 carats), the bezel has 48 diamonds (~2.81 carats) and the dial is paved with 174 diamonds (~5.21 carats). The use of the baguette cut, with its focus on clarity (making any imperfections easier to see), is a symbol of prestige, quality and expertise. The smaller number of facets (25 rather than 57 or 58 for the traditional brilliant cut, which Chanel uses extensively) create an appearance that is particularly well suited to a men’s watch. Fewer facets means less sparkle, and the understated aesthetic produces a sober, more masculine appeal.
The Monsieur de Chanel collection follows the example of its sister collections, which make abundant use of diamonds. Baguette-cut diamonds are nevertheless harder to find, except on a few models in the J12 and Première collections (and also on the latest Boy.Friend Squelette), and then only around the bezel. Chanel is venturing into new territory by using this distinctive gemstone, not only around the bezel but also on the case and dial of the new Monsieur de Chanel.
Who was it that said that diamonds are a girl’s best friend? Certainly not Chanel!
