Patrick Ulm is not known for being hasty. Charles Girardier, the brand he is (re)launching, is settling in for the long haul. This is not about reviving a well-known, prestigious name, such as in the case of Universal or Arnold & Son. The name Charles Girardier will be unknown to almost all watch aficionados, and that’s what Patrick Ulm is banking on.
When we asked about new products we could expect to see at the Geneva Watch Days, he answered with a mischievous smile: “The brand!” Which is a polite way of saying that, before we start looking at the products, it would be a good idea to gain an understanding of the history, current context and future ambitions of the brand.
Impact of the pandemic
“Clearly, Covid hasn’t helped,” Patrick Ulm explains. “Our watches are original creations that need to be seen, touched and tried on the wrist. We’re not making a generic product. 50% of the perceived value of a Charles Girardier is lost in a photo.” 
Nevertheless, the maison received a significant boost when it won the Women’s Watch Prize at the most recent Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). “Of course, being recognised by our peers brought us a great deal of respect and credibility, particularly given that we were up against such prestigious brands as Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget,” the CEO continues. “But, paradoxically, it had the effect of spotlighting our women’s 37mm collection, which exists alongside our men’s 41mm collection. We have balanced things up with the timepiece we created for Only Watch, which is also 41mm.”
Meet us in Geneva
In Geneva from 30 August, Charles Girardier will be offering visitors the opportunity to “see, touch and try” two rare models. The first is the Chevron men’s 41mm model in white gold with a cobalt blue dial. This watch has only been seen in public a handful of times, mainly at the brand’s showroom. The second – the women’s 37mm Fleur de Sel with Verdigris dial – has never been seen before.
These timepieces will showcase Charles Girardier’s exclusive tourbillon, as well as its mastery of creating unique textures and visual effects using grand feu enamel, which has become a brand signature. 
In addition, Patrick Ulm notes that “We will have two authentic Charles Girardier period pieces on display.” This is a rare and exceptional opportunity, given how few original pieces exist. The majority are to be found in museums in Geneva, London or Paris.
There are also rumours that the brand will present a further surprise – a unique piece that is soon to go up for auction…
