Three segments, a guiding theme, models for men and women, a seamless price range: if there were such a thing as a model student among watchmakers and jewellers, Chaumet would definitely deserve this title. The venerable House now has a classic offering (Liens models), along with its more classic counterpart (Class One), topped by creative watchmaking that picks up at 20,000 euros and rises to dizzying peaks of Haute Joaillerie. The Chaumet range has doubtless never been as consistent and complete.
Democratising the artistic crafts
It is in this segment of creative watchmaking that Chaumet is making a clean break, not only as far as its own history is concerned, but also in relation to that of watchmaking in general. By focusing on its penchant for naturalist themes, notably embodied for the past two years by the hydrangea (presented under its French name, hortensia), Chaumet has developed a range of timepieces showcasing its ability in the fields of artistic crafts and jewellery. What’s so innovative about that? The fact that Chaumet is now bringing these creations within reach of a broader audience. The daringly gem-set yellow or white gold cases frame exceptional gold, freshwater and saltwater mother-of-pearl marquetry.
Four different interpretations of the hydrangea feature mother-of-pearl in lacework or sculpted variations. The result is entirely new, consistent with the brand universe, and brings genuine added value to a market that had hitherto stubbornly reserved artistic crafts for a wealthy elite.
Animated designs
The role of the hydrangea extends well beyond that of a static motif. Chaumet was indeed one of the first to introduce the concept of movement into jewellery, with its famous Empire tiara embellished with detachable ‘ears of wheat’. Combining this mobility with the hydrangea motif and mother-of-pearl naturally gave rise to a new Creative Complication featuring a dial with three layers of diamonds and engraved mother-of-pearl. In its centre spin four inner petals of which one set with red sapphires indicates the hours. Around it whirls a pink mother-of-pearl hydrangea blossom indicating the minutes.
The beauty of this minutes flower is two-fold. First of all, it is not connected to any central axis and appears to have delicately settled on the dial. Secondly, it does not trace a perfect circle, but instead follows the irregular contours of the blossom. This is an authentic complication such as the brand has already invented in 2013 with the “Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes” creations. The 41 mm model, which retails at 154,000 euro, joins Chaumet’s permanent collections.
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The Liens move up a notch
The Liens models were designed to reposition Chaumet at the core of fine affordable Swiss watchmaking. Having reached this stage, Chaumet is now enriching its offer with new upscale creations taking over where the first ones stopped.
This means there is currently an array of all-gold watches in 27 mm or 33 mm versions. The collection is topped by a full-set model and its price range stretches from 2,000 to 43,000 euros. Having laid the foundations of its Liens offering, Chaumet the jeweller naturally needed to build up a segment worthy of its prestigious aura. It has now accomplished just that.
On the men’s side, the Dandy returns to its fundamentals
The Dandy has been the masculine icon of the Maison at 12 Place Vendôme for the past 12 years. Two new self-winding models will be joining the collections in October, epitomising a renewed focus on the Dandy fundamentals: a cushion shape, bayadere stripes and a single broad 12 o’clock hour-marker alluding to the company address on the famous Parisian square.
The first gold model will retail for 15,000 while the second steel version will carry a 3,900-euro price tag. It is appreciable that the smaller of the two, which is inherently more ostentatious because of its yellow gold case, should be kept to 38 mm out of respect for the standards of discreet luxury. The steel version now measures 42 mm, an opportunist choice that puts the Dandy firmly in tune with the times, but which Chaumet had never previously dared to attain.
