When the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date was launched in 2014 in platinum or red gold versions, it was quite clearly targeted at men. Its classic, elegant dial and 42 mm case diameter, with a rather hefty 14.6 mm depth, didn’t seem to be the kind of thing that would appeal to women. One of the photos from the press kit, showing the watch draped across a case of carefully folded ties, appeared to confirm this impression. It is clearly a man’s watch. And yet, women like it too. It seemed like as good a reason as any to try one.
Glashütte Original very kindly provided me with the three latest versions of the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, in steel: one with a black varnished dial whose indices, two Roman numerals and hands are coated with sky blue SuperLuminova, launched last year; the model with a white dial and black luminescent markers; and “The Capital Edition” launched this year for the 68th Berlinale, of which Glashütte Original is the main sponsor. This limited edition features a sunbrushed dial in Bourbon Grey with its three subdials outlined in navy blue, while the SuperLuminova coating the hands and Roman numerals is in a slightly vintage-looking beige hue, with more white lume on the markers.
My favourite was the black version, which is discreetly sporty and more contemporary than the other two, and that’s the one I chose to wear. There’s no getting around the fact that it’s a big, chunky watch. Its size and volume are imposing on the wrist, and on a very slim frame it might be too heavy, but I personally didn’t find it awkward or uncomfortable. The black leather strap with blue stitching is fitted with a folding clasp that is easy to adjust, ensuring a good fit.
In terms of design, the three discreet tone-on-tone chronograph registers (which are far more understated than the more overtly sporty panda designs) soften the masculinity of the watch. But there is no chance of forgetting that this watch is indeed a chronograph. And that might be the crux of the difference in how men and women will use it. While I enjoy the design of the chronograph dial, I admit that I don’t have many occasions to use the chrono function. And that’s perhaps a shame, given that the flyback mechanism of Glashütte Original’s 37-01 chronograph calibre, which features a central seconds hand with stop seconds function, plus 30-minute and 12-hour registers, is very easy to use. The chronograph and the flyback mechanism are activated via pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock respectively. A second press of the flyback pusher stops the current timer, and the chronograph hour, minute and seconds hands return to zero while the timer continues to run; once the pusher is released a new timing cycle commences.
I personally like a watch to have a date. As its name suggests, the date window of the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date is generously proportioned. Technically, because the tens and units are displayed using two separate discs, it can be considered a “big date”. The indented edges of the window draw the eye in, making it particularly easy to read. The power reserve is another useful function of this timepiece. This simple and inconspicuous scale located inside the chronograph minutes counter provides a visual indication of how much of the movement’s generous 70-hour power reserve remains.
The column wheel chronograph movement, introduced in 2014, is Glashütte Original’s first dedicated in-house chronograph movement, and it is characterised by its compact construction. The control lever, for instance, is made in a single piece, offering maximum security, and the smaller chronograph clutch uses a tilting pinion that travels through the same small angle when starting and stopping the chronograph. The power reserve benefits from a new low-energy oscillation system managed by a bi-directional rotor and a single spring barrel which ensures that the watch remains precise throughout the winding cycle.
The sapphire caseback reveals the care that Glashütte Original takes with the finish of its manufacture movements: Glashütte stripe finish striping on the automatic bridge, blued screws, a skeletonised 21 karat gold central rotor, double-G logo and gilded screws on the new oscillating mechanism.
All 3 models are available at 13,500 Swiss francs.
