Arceau Lift - Going Up

Image
Arceau Lift - Going Up - Hermès
3 minutes read
From high fashion to high watchmaking: Hermès proves once again that it rightfully belongs among the technical stars of the horological sky.

History runs deep at Hermès

History runs deep at Hermès. And it runs complicated. Both of these elements are excellently symbolized by the new Arceau Lift.

Hermès’ historical Paris premises at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré – a historical street within a historical city that is even home to the official residence of the president of France – has been present at this address since 1880. Emile Hermès bought the building in 1923 and launched a construction plan to turn the manufacturing premises into a well-organized, neoclassically designed boutique with large display windows. The upper floors continued to contain the artisans’ workshops.


Arceau Lift - Going UpThe double H monogram one occasionally sees on products across the 14 product categories that Hermès offers today is not accidental and is not solely a play on the Hermès name as one might suspect. This motif was created in 1900 when Emile Hermès, grandson of founder Thierry, married Julie Hollande, the daughter of a Faubourg Saint-Antoine-based businessman involved in exotic woods. As this was a period in time enamored of wrought iron (1889’s Eiffel Tower, for example, is made of a form of wrought iron), a malleable alloy that is easily welded into decorative forms, the Double H also entered the fixtures of 24, Rue du Faubourg: it could be seen in the entranceway, on banisters and handrails, and entwined in the door of a certain prominent elevator installed in the building in 1923.
 
Technical Double H

"Selon la manière dont on l’utilise, le motif Double H est intemporel"

Now this graceful motif finds a new home in the high horology division. Previously alluded to in the name of the Hermès H-our (which is pronounced, “H Hour”) model, its wrought-iron beatitude has not yet been physically seen in a watch. The new Arceau Lift not only utilizes this in the metal for the first time, but does it twice, providing the perfect decorative introduction to the high watchmaking located underneath it. “The Double H decoration is kind of timeless depending on the way you are using it,” explains Philippe Delhotal, artistic and creative director for La Montre Hermès. “Some other métiers have been using it on belts for example. You choose the right material and details on the decoration to provide a contemporary touch.”


Hermès Arceau LiftManually wound Caliber H1923 (named for the year the elevator – the lift in question – was installed at 24, Rue du Faubourg) was fully developed over the course of two years with tourbillon specialist La Joux-Perret and contains an authentic technical feat: a flying tourbillon. The steely Double H accompanies the whirlwind along its gravity-defying rotations, which necessitated a redevelopment of the flying tourbillon with its gold-colored screw balance. A second Double H motif covers the barrel bridge, which is visible in a cutaway at 12 o’clock, and provides an incredibly amount of balance to the open, friendly look of the Arceau Lift. The open spring barrel provides 90 hours of power reserve to the movement. “It was a question of overall esthetic to balance the Double H decoration,” adds Delhotal.
 
Lost in the dial
 
As fascinating as views of the movement through the dial can be, it is also easy to get lost in the beauty of the Lift’s own dial, which is anything but a dial in the classic sense. In fact, much of the “dial” is formed by parts of the multi-layered caliber. The well-finished dial side of the base plate, for example, bears an engraving of the chevron motif indicative of the Arceau line and can also be spied on other Hermès products – such as vintage furniture and last year’s Arceau Marqueterie de Paille, a unique timepiece featuring a straw marquetry dial. A steel bridge running horizontally through the movement provides a home to the hand arbor from which the gold-plated hands emanate. Instead of numerals, markers are placed on the silver-plated flange, which forms the only part of an official dial here. 

Arceau Lift - Going UpHoused in a 43 mm rose gold case, the Arceau Lift is limited to just 176 pieces (each one representing one year of Hermès’ existence since 1837). Naturally, it is secured to the wrist by a strap made in Hermès own factory. A cherry on top, so to speak, in brown alligator skin. 

 
Featured brand