How many watches are making their debut at Watches and Wonders? Officially all of them, but take away the reissues, the inspired-bys and the dial, strap or other variations, and you’re left with very few genuinely original pieces. Ones that instantly engage our attention because they are authentically new. Which is precisely where Hermès excels.
In great shape
The duo of Laurent Dordet (CEO, Hermès Horloger) and Philippe Delhotal (Artistic Director) has done it again. After the wonderful L’Heure de la Lune comes an even more enigmatic creation: H08. We discover a square, possibly a circle, perhaps a cushion. Probably something of all three. Hermès is refraining from making any comment as to this novel shape: it is what we feel it is.
It’s tempting, at first glance, to see a resemblance with the Carré H, reintroduced in 2018, but this would be too hasty a conclusion. “We needed a contemporary men’s watch with a casual feel,” says Philippe Delhotal. “We wanted it to be resolutely different, with very much a style of its own and an unconventional shape. Its strength lies in its geometric form and in the combination of lines and proportions. It’s all about balance.”
The right type
Three years in development at Hermès Horloger, the H08 breaks new ground. This is a watch steeped in subtle sophistication, starting with a slim 39 x 39 mm case that marks it out for contemporary urban wear – a long, long way from the sporting Monaco or the BR 01 pilot’s. There are no sharp edges, only soft curves. The bezel is a work in itself. If a comparison had to be made, it would be with the Harmony (Vacheron Constantin), with the special touch that only Hermès can bring. So where do we see this?
First of all, on the dial. Hermès has raised watch typography to an art. It is, indeed, astonishing to see how the vast majority of brands content themselves with woefully ordinary font to mark the hours and minutes. Hermès, in contrast, has always gone the extra mile and custom-designed a visual language for each of its landmark watches. The H08 included. You can’t help but feel a little thrill of delight when you realise the 0 has the same shape as the bezel. That the 3, 6, 8 and 9 are practically brothers. Or that the counterweight for the seconds hand is a tiny replica of the case.
Finishing has not been given short shrift. For the three models in titanium, Hermès has chosen two shades of grey for the dial. The difference is barely perceptible but concords beautifully with the different metal finishes. A fourth version, entirely in black, sees the first use by Hermès of a graphene-based composite. And because there is a distinctly sporty vibe to this H08, leather straps give way to a titanium bracelet or rubber – the latter reprising a pattern from Hermès ready-to-wear. An Hermès watch without a leather strap? The H08 really is in a class of its own!
Shall we dance?
For women, Hermès introduces a bejewelled version of its Faubourg whose diminutive 15.5 mm size was first seen in 2014 and has inspired numerous variations since. The Faubourg’s bracelet, however, has remained unchanged… until now.
For this Polka rendition, Hermès has had fun with some playful gemsetting, using gold and diamonds to create a lively polka-like rhythm played out across the bracelet links. As much jewellery as watch, the Polka comes as three versions, in white gold, yellow gold and a cuff.
Hold your horses!
The Parisian firm’s Métiers d’Art collection is home to a stable of new equine-inspired watches. Of course, being Hermès this isn’t some gentle trot through the history books but a rollicking gallop of creativity that plays with equestrian codes, myths and time.
Hooves thunder through space on the Arceau Space Derby, magnificently portrayed in miniature painting on blue or pink aventurine. The Slim d’Hermès C’est la fête is a crazy take on Dia de los Muertos with a skeleton horse picked out in paillonné enamel and engraving – possibly the quirkiest vanity ever. Last of all, meet the T-Rex Aaaaargh! which brings Alice Shirley’s design roaring to life in leather marquetry. After the Slim d’Hermès Grrrrr! with its grumpy bear and the howling wolf of the Arceau Awooooo, the Aaaaargh! is a remarkable pocket watch that does something very important in the current circumstances: it makes us smile.
