Talk is cheap. Many watchmakers declared that 2016 would be a banner year for women’s watches, but in fact the women’s collections tend to draw on their usual inspirations and follow the seasonal flows. Two companies nevertheless stand apart, and have already demonstrated their commitment to the fairer sex.
The one that has made the biggest splash is Roger Dubuis. At the last SIHH everything was centred on women: the collections, the theme, the booth itself. It was an all-or-nothing gambit, as we have come to expect from Roger Dubuis. The Velvet collection (Black, Blossom, Ribbon and the rest) immediately established itself as the embodiment of the modern diva, in both fine watchmaking and fine jewellery. It was a bold wager, and perhaps not without risk to the brand’s masculine image, but the company’s female clientele are already reaping the benefits.
An idea whose time has come
Nevertheless, a closer look reveals that Roger Dubuis’ approach is by no means unique. Its Velvet by Massaro, for instance, has a strap created together with shoe designer Massaro. And Jaeger-LeCoultre has also paired shoes with straps to seduce its female clients, thanks to the Reverso Classic Duetto executed with input from Christian Louboutin. A similar approach is evident at Baume & Mercier, which presented three Promesses produced in association with embroiderer Sophie Baudry (although these will not be on general sale).
Baselworld: subtle feminine creativity
While the SIHH focused heavily on straps and bracelets, Baselworld looks set to be more varied. Blancpain has announced a Ladybird Ultraplate featuring a mainstay of women’s watches: mother-of-pearl. In this piece, the mother-of-pearl is intricately carved with concentric motifs, with indexes and diamonds applied directly. The originality of the design and the applied markers help to make the Ladybird Ultraplate a bold but utterly feminine timepiece.
Another unique piece is the new Precious Couture by Chopard, whose bezel is set with concentric rows of precious gems, assembled into a bejewelled halo like a collar of glittering lace. The gem-setting in overlapping waves is proof once again of Chopard’s exceptional creativity and mastery of haute joaillerie techniques.
Shapes and colours
For International Women’s Day, Harry Winston is presenting an innovative central moon phase. This daring style exercise resurrects a motif we haven’t seen for a decade or so (since Perrelet’s example), and gives pride of place to the circle (case, date window, moon phase display).
Alongside shapes we also have colours: Kerbedanz takes the prize here with a Tree of Life paved with 541 emeralds. This flamboyant and unconventional monochrome statement represents a genuine aesthetic risk, something we see all too rarely these days.
