When we think of Jaquet Droz, we don’t necessarily think of sports watches. And yet, the watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds does have a sports watch line, known as SW (Sport Watch), which was inaugurated in 2008 with the Grande Seconde SW. Further versions of the Grande Seconde SW followed, using the same hefty 45 mm case with its powerful lines, assertive protective claws at 3 and 9 o’clock, notched bezel and crown with rubber grip. A Grande Seconde Tourbillon in pink gold was subsequently added to the SW line, along with some smaller 41 mm models and a diamond-set Lady. Almost all of the SW range consists of Grande Seconde models, but there are also a few Chronos, the first of which was launched in 2010. It comes in the familiar 45 mm case with its modern, sporty design showcasing a black, blue or dial with two counters set horizontally, and a large date.
It’s this urban, dynamic Chrono that Jaquet Droz has recently revisited, with two new iterations unveiled just a few days ago. The steel case is made in several parts, each with a different finish – polished, satin-brushed or matte. It follows the SW codes, including the signature claws, openworked lugs, notched bezel, screw-down crown and chronograph pushers with rubber mouldings for a secure grip.
Available in midnight blue or anthracite, the dial features a vertically brushed finished that is sportier and more contemporary than the Côtes de Genève that featured on some previous Grande Seconde and Chrono SW models. In order to ensure that the hour and minute hands don’t obscure the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock as they pass over, Jaquet Droz has wisely equipped these new timepieces with the SuperLuminova-tipped skeletonised hands used in the first Chrono models. The dial indications have also been trimmed down; just four Roman numerals have been retained, while the others have been replaced with 18K white gold baton markers. A traditional minutes track has been added, with the 60, 15, 30 and 45-second numerals picked out in red. The date is still in its dominant 12 o’clock position. Rarely for a chronograph, it’s a large date complication that displays oversized numbers through the use of two separate discs for the tens and units.
The back of the watch offers an even sportier and more technical view, with visible screws and the sapphire crystal opening onto the watch’s motor: the self-winding Jaquet Droz 6885-Si-s calibre. According to Jaquet Droz’s nomenclature, the suffix “Si” indicates the presence of silicon technology in the calibre, specifically the balance spring and the pallet forks. The openworked propeller-shaped rotor is made of 18K white gold. The movement has a column wheel guaranteeing a high degree of precision, and provides a power reserve of 40 hours and a frequency of 21,600 vph.
Each of these two versions comes fitted with a rolled-edged fabric strap to match the dial. They are priced at CHF 17,850 CHF.
