It’s a nickname that needs little explanation. Pandas are black and white, with the eyes and nose black against a white background. Such is the sobriquet given, therefore, to chronographs with the same configuration, in other words black counters (whether there be two or three) against a lighter background. For the majority, these backgrounds are either white or silver, although Montblanc has just launched a nice shade of cappuccino.
Here is our selection, in alphabetical order:
Anonimo Militare Chronograph Vintage “Panda”
Price: 3,890 Swiss francs
Capitalising on the popularity of its Militare chronograph, Anonimo presented two new models this year with a vintage-inspired design and “panda” and “inverse panda” dials. In keeping with the vintage look, the background on the panda version is eggshell rather than pure white. The stainless-steel model is equipped with a Sellita SW300 self-winding movement with a Dubois Dépraz 2035M chronograph module and 42 hours of power reserve.
Movement: Self-winding cal SW300 with Dubois Dépraz 2035M chronograph module
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case diameter: 43.4mm
Water resistance: 120m
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
Price: 24,400 Swiss francs
Like many of the watches designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, the Royal Oak has stood the test of time. It has kept true to its design codes without worrying about pandering to trends for particular colour combinations. But one of those design codes is the two-tone contrast between dial base and counters, which is now available in a multitude of colours, from sober tones to vivid hues. In its panda incarnation the famous grande tapisserie dial comes in silvery-white with contrasting black chronograph counters.
Movement: Self-winding calibre 2385
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case diameter: 41mm
Water resistance: 50m
Frédérique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph
Price: 2,595 Swiss francs
Not quite black on white but grey on white, this particular model in Frédérique Constant’s collection dedicated to the vintage Austin Healey comes closest to the panda. Its bi-compax dial arrangement, with just two counters, clearly recalls the cuddly beast’s darker eyes and a grey strap completes the heritage look.
Movement: FC-397 self-winding chronograph movement
Power reserve: 46 hours
Case diameter: 42mm
Water resistance: 50m
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph Limited Edition
Price: €4,990
First seen at the 2018 Goodwood Festival of Speed, for which Montblanc is the official timekeeper and watch partner, this new chronograph has an accomplished design that could have been inspired by timepiece director Davide Cerrato’s morning coffee. This time the dial background is not white but “cappuccino” and the counters are chocolate brown rather than black. This is complemented by a brown flange around the edge of the dial and a perforated vintage-style brown “Sfumato” calfskin strap from the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.
Movement: Self-winding calibre MB 25.10
Power reserve: 46 hours
Case diameter: 43mm
Water resistance: 100m
Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 limited edition
Price: 5,800 Swiss francs
CK2998 was the reference of the first Speedmaster to be worn in space, on the wrist of astronaut Walter Schirra in 1962. Note that, unlike the Moonwatch that was certified by NASA, this earlier model has a pulsometer scale around the bezel, rather than a tachymeter. This re-edition is a limited edition of 2,998 and is powered by the venerable manually-wound Omega calibre 1861 used in the Moonwatch, undoubtedly to the delight of Speedmaster purists. Its panda look comes from a sandblasted silver dial with three black counters and a perforated leather “driver’s” strap gives it that extra touch of sportiness.
Movement: Manual-winding Omega calibre 1861
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case diameter: 39.7mm
Water resistance: 50m
