Roger Dubuis redefines its priorities

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Roger Dubuis redefines its priorities - Roger Dubuis
3 minutes read
The Manufacture announces its first new SIHH releases, while its CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué also unveils the brand’s decision to focus on certain key lines.

“We sold another double tourbillon in Paris yesterday for 250,000 CHF, but we don’t always break out the champagne, since that’s a fairly common event for us: it is after all our best-selling model”. Is Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Roger Dubuis, being deliberately provocative? At a time when the industry is complaining of a tangible economic slowdown, the Manufacture seems to be enjoying stellar results. It is nonetheless planning to considerably streamline its collections so as to concentrate on its most successful products.

The new spider-skeleton creature

Fans of the brand were expecting it, and the industry as a whole confirms the trend: the skeleton watch will be a dominant theme of the year 2015, and Roger Dubuis intends to embody it. “We see it as a way of standing out from the crowd,” explains Jean-Marc Pontroué. “The double tourbillon we launched in 2000 is our best-seller. We sell an average of 250 per year, and the same amount for simple tourbillons, not to mention a hundred or so Quatuor models”. The common denominator between these successful timepieces is that they all belong to the Excalibur collection, which will thus be reinforced in 2015.

Ahead of the upcoming SIHH, Roger Dubuis has already confirmed the appearance of two new references in this collection that will give pride of place to… open space! Jean-Marc Pontroué is keen to insist on the fact that “Our skeleton movements are designed as such, and are not merely hollowed-out existing calibres”. With the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon, the Manufacture is thereby confirming its radical, highly architectural approach that further strengthens its visual identity.

 

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Spider Tourbillon Volant Squelette

 

The star symbol, in this case centred around 1 o’clock, will be the cornerstone of this new model. It also represents the heart of the spider’s web figuratively portrayed by the Manufacture. The key feature of this new release lies in the decision to extend skeleton-working expertise to the case and bezel. Despite its 45 mm diameter, the watch thus remains light, airy and above all sporty, since it will feature aluminium, titanium and rubber elements.

The Excalibur Skeleton goes automatic

The brand’s other main announcement also relates to the Excalibur collection. A new, equally awaited calibre is making its appearance: an automatic skeleton micro-rotor movement. Also featuring the star signature (this time centred around 4 o’clock), Calibre RD820SQ powers the first automatic Excalibur.

 

Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Automatique Squelette

 

While the principle is novel in itself, the sculpture of the Roger Dubuis micro-rotor is even more surprising. This element that is generally preferably solid so as to make it as heavy as possible, has in this instance been considerably hollowed out. Nonetheless, the Manufacture assures us that its winding capacity is equal to that of a solid micro-rotor, which in itself represents a substantial technical breakthrough. The model is announced with a 60-hour power reserve.

 

Roger Dubuis - RD820SQ

 

Velvet-smooth femininity

Finally, Roger Dubuis confirms that it will be reinforcing its Velvet line of ladies’ watches. Watches & Wonders 2014 had already provided a glimpse of the move in this direction, notably with Haute Couture, gem-set models featuring original straps including a mink fur one.

But Roger Dubuis does not intend to stop here: “In value terms, the feminine segment represents 30% of our watch sales”, says Jean-Marc Pontroué. “With that in mind, we enlisted Stephanie Seymour as the muse of our Velvet Haute Joaillerie launch and this will reinforce our presence in the field of ladies’ watches and also prepare this audience for our big comeback in the field of high-end jewellery”.

Roger Dubuis is thus clearly announcing its intention to re-enter the Haute Joaillerie domain, with a timeline aimed at the year 2020. Between now and then, the Manufacture will work on developing new collections, and above all on creating a network of boutiques ready to welcome the jewellery ranges.

 

Roger Dubuis - Stephanie Seymour

 

Streamlining

This expansion will be counter-balanced by a reduction, as Jean-Marc Pontroué explains in forthright terms: “We decided that at our youthful age of just 20, five product lines was just too much.” In order to avoid excessive dispersion of its strengths and management costs for a Manufacture that currently has no less than 31 in-house calibres, Roger Dubuis will be putting its Pulsion and Monégasque lines on hold. Meanwhile, the brand’s appetite remains as strong as ever, but will be focused on three lines: Excalibur, Hommage and Velvet. In all, they will represent 20 new models to be unveiled in Geneva next January.

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