After the Sea-Dweller, another die-hard tool watch is crossing over to the civilian world of gold and steel. The Explorer, which just may be the purest of them all, just became available in a Rolesor livery, much like the hardcore diver did back in 2019. The new ref. 124273 welcomes a latest generation calibre, like all Rolex collections do at some point. This one is called cal. 3230. In the Rolex playbook, gold on the bracelet and bezel means the hands, indices and digits must be made of the same metal.
To some, this will feel like a betrayal of the uncompromising, utilitarian nature of the Explorer, the absolute no-nonsense Rolex Professional model. One that got its stripes by being there when the top of the world, the Everest, was first conquered. But then again, who's pure enough to actually climb any mountain with a Rolex, much less a 8km summit ? Let him (or her) cast the first stone. And in the meantime, Rolex hasn't scrapped the original. The all-steel Explorer is still available, as the ref. 124270.
Rolex is the king of updating the classics. In 2021, it's the Explorer II's turn to experience the Rolex battery of modifications. It always starts with a movement update, cal. 3285 in this instance. So the other GMT from Rolex, the one with the fixed bezel and orange hand, has been modified, ever so slightly. Thinner lugs, a brighter Chromalight (Rolex's version of Super-LumiNova), a touched-up bracelet (barely touched, though), it will take a microscope (or the kind of insane attention to detail only some Rolex fanatics have) to spot the differences.
During the 2000's, the Cosmograph Daytona had been given a small series of meteorite-dial models. That specific ref. 116519 didn't leave a mark, since the only model people were actually interested in then was the steel version. Meteorite dials have been a regular staple of Rolex novelties for the past few years, always in short supply and in high demand. The chronographs with a dial from outer space certainly won't be standard-issue. But since the attraction of the Daytona has had to become more diverse, the three versions, one in each of the brand's golds, should sell out rather quickly.
Talking of scarcity, this one should be scant. The last time Rolex issued a fully gem-set watch must be during the better days of the (almost forgotten by now) Pearlmaster collection. The all-new Lady-Datejust 28 mm ref.219458RBR is entirely garnished with diamonds — bezel, case, dial and President bracelet included. It took no less than 1,089 stones to thoroughly adorn the yellow (or white) gold timepiece. This must be the shiniest, and most expensive Rolex of the past years... or ever.
A little less over-the-top, Rolex is also offering a newly designed Day-Date 36 with fully set case, dial and bezel. It stands out by its touch of colour, which is a new thing for them. The Roman numerals are made of enamel (an extremely rare technique in the Rolex dial workshops). Their colour, coral orange, lagoon blue or purplish burgundy, matches the alligator leather straps', which is an oddity for Rolex.
It's just something they've been doing forever: creating new dials. Without even thinking of using gems, the Datejust 36 welcomes two new motifs. The first one is a palm dial, available in green but also champagne and gray. The other is rather intriguing: Rolex took the shape of the fluting on their bezel, flattened it into a pattern and made a dial with it. It generates an illusion of a 3D surface, a bit like a honeycomb guilloché, which feels surprisingly modern.
