Woman is the future of man, as the saying goes. And the watch industry didn’t hesitate to put this dictum to the test, when men’s watch sales began to slip. In terms of complications, Christophe Claret set the ball rolling with his Margot, closely followed by Fabergé and its Lady Compliquée. Where three-handed models are concerned, collections became smaller: Baume & Mercier’s Promesse became the Petite Promesse; the D by Dior was abbreviated even further to the Mini D, and the Hermès Faubourg shrank down to 15 mm. But what about Tag Heuer?
The La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture certainly projects an unapologetically masculine image. Its slogan – “Don’t crack under pressure” – is an exhortation to manly fortitude. And its strategic partnerships all have that unmistakeable whiff of testosterone: rugby, Red Bull Racing, the Indianapolis 500, football, promoted by ruggedly masculine legends including Mohammed Ali, Steve McQueen and Ayrton Senna, who are all about speed, competition and power. So where do women fit into this?
One watch in five is bought by a woman
Women’s watches represent around 20% of TAG Heuer’s sales. One in five is quite a lot. In order to build on this base, TAG Heuer is putting its faith in three collections that all feature best-selling women’s models: the Carrera Lady, Aquaracer and Formula 1. The Carrera Lady has the biggest following – in fact 23% of the Carrera collection is dedicated to ladies’ watches. The name alone signals its close connection with the brand’s DNA. It also has the backing of a charming ambassador, Cara Delevingne. The Carrera models have proved to be extremely successful, in 41 mm and 39 mm diameters, with or without diamonds, and the quilted leather strap was an immediate hit with the model’s fans. “On social media, her star power is staggering,” notes a brand representative, pointing to her 36 million Instagram followers. 
You win some, you lose some
Two other collections follow in Carrera’s wake. The Aquaracer is sportier, while the Formula 1 is aimed at a younger clientele. The former has by far the most women’s watches – 40% of the collection – compared with just 25% for the Formula 1. In all, there are several dozen models that all but eclipse the less than stellar showing of the fourth collection for women: Link. “Where is TAG Heuer’s DNA in this model, apart from in the bracelet?” the company’s followers lament. As sales continue to disappoint, some new models are being tested in selected markets. The Link, launched in 1987, has had a hard time adapting to the new century. Its main selling point is its bracelet – a rather slim advantage compared with the historic heritage of the Monza and the Monaco, the technical prowess of the Heuer 01 and 02 (particularly the Tourbillon version), and the avant-garde Connected Watch. 
Where next for women?
But the TAG universe still offers a number of directions for women’s watches. First, the Link could be retired – it is struggling to remain relevant. And then, perhaps, a new collection could be created, 100% for women. In the same price bracket, this has long been the favoured course of Baume & Mercier (Linea, Promesse, Petite Promesse), which has reaped the rewards in terms of market share. And finally, where’s the Connected Watch for women? “For the time being, with its 46 mm diameter, there’s no chance of seeing it on a woman’s wrist,” observes a company official. Such a move would mean substantial investment in miniaturising the technology. But this is exactly what MMT, the “connected manufacture” that serves Frédérique Constant and its Horological Smartwatch, has just done, and a connected watch for women has just been released. But the stakes are significantly higher for TAG Heuer, which uses considerably more sophisticated technology. Over in La Chaux-de-Fonds, they are waiting impatiently for Moore’s Law to kick in.
