I remember back in the early 1980’s when I met the then-owner of Ulysse Nardin, Rolf Schnyder, for the first time. He was incredibly passionate about watches and even more so about what the recently revived brand was going to achieve. He also recognized the need to be on the forefront of technology and pushed the boundaries time and again. In fact, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first watch brands to experiment with silicium.
Over the years, the brand has created proprietary materials for use in movements, components and even watches. Today, it remains a pioneer – working with breakthrough materials and unveiling innovative watchmaking achievements.
A Continuance of Daring
With its newest Executive Free Wheel watches – sporting new dial and barrel materials – Ulysse Nardin continues to demonstrate its commitment to being daring and different. The Executive Free Wheel watches, first unveiled to the world last year, feature seemingly free-floating movement parts on the dial side for a creative architecture that is three-dimensional sort of “in your face” wow. Not quite a skeleton watch – because there is a dial and only certain elements are visible – the Free Wheel is powered by the UN-176 caliber that was several years in the making and relies heavily on the brand’s Silicium technology.
A work of masterful watchmaking and engineering, the Free Wheel was, unfortunately, somewhat overshadowed in its infancy year by other Ulysse Nardin innovations, including the Marine Diver, the Freak Vision and an extensive erotic collection. By adding these four new and exciting dials to the series, Ulysse Nardin deftly brings the attention back to the Free Wheel.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Free Wheel Osmium
By turning to Osmium, one of the world’s heaviest metals, Ulysse Nardin defies the concept that lightweight watches are better. The incredibly rare metal – rarer than platinum – is also very dense and therefore highly stable, often used in to strengthen materials. (To date, only Hublot has used osmium in its timepieces.) The best part about this metal, though, is its incandescence. It has an incredible crystalized form that lets it shine like zillions of tiny diamonds – but in a beautiful pale blue hue for a mesmerizing total effect.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Free Wheel Carbonium Gold®
Much like the spots of a leopard or the lines of a cheetah, Ulysse Nardin’s Carbonium ® -- composed of aeronautical-grade carbon fibers – offers lines and patterns that form naturally in the making of the material – rending each piece unique. Carbonium® is twice as light as aluminum and is a resin composite made with ecologically sourced components. It is made by fusing carbon filaments with gold particles via a heating process and the ultimate look is super high-tech.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Free Wheel Straw Marquetry
For this version, Ulysse Nardin’s artisans turn to the 17th-century technique once practiced by nuns in convents: straw marquetry. Using natural materials that are ultra lightweight, the artisans work the black-dyed straw to unusual patterns for the dial and barrel cover. Every stalk of straw is dyed with textile dye, individually cut and prepared using a sleek finish that offers depth and dimension to the dial.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Free Wheel Aventurine
The Executive Free Wheel Aventurine, with golden flecks in it that emulate the stars, features an aventurine quartz (as opposed to feldspar or glass) dial in a rich blue color. (The stone also comes in orange and in a jade green hue.) While I typically love an aventurine dial, in this case, with gold wheels and visible movement parts, it somehow falls a little short. Mind you, I said a little.
Each features an 18-karat gold case, is being built in a limited edition of 18 pieces and retails for $99,000 - except for the Osmium that sells for $102,000.
Ulysse Nardin: Crazy or On Point
With these new versions, especially the Osmium and Carbonium® Gold models, I think Ulysse Nardin nailed it. The brand stayed true to its roots and pulled out all the stops with adventurous new materials. Even the straw marquetry has something unusual to offer and respects ancient crafts and techniques – folding them into a visionary timepiece. Also, by unveiling these limited editions, the brand underscores several important factors in its heritage: pioneering spirit, haute horology watchmaking and commitment to bringing the brand to new heights.
