There has been much talk lately of exceptionally thin watches, most notably with the release of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic which broke three records including the world’s thinnest tourbillon, the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon and the world’s thinnest automatic watch of any kind. We also saw the release of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Concept which now holds the record for the thinnest perpetual calendar, coming in at a total of just 6.3mm.
Due to these incredible technical feats, one can overlook other brands which are producing solid offerings in the way of slender, complicated watches.
Cue the Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar. Released at SIHH 2018 and nominated for an award at this year’s GPHG in the men’s complicated watches category.
The Vacheron Constantin weighs in at just 8.1mm thick, and while yes, the AP comes in just under 2mm thinner, the Vacheron Constantin is a full production watch versus a concept. Many other perpetual calendars offered by other brands are around the 11mm thick mark, so Vacheron Constantin has managed to shave nearly 3mm off that, producing an attractive, slender perpetual calendar.
This ultra-thin perpetual calendar features classic styling which is in line with the Overseas range produced by Vacheron Constantin. It is offered in pink gold, has a sapphire crystal case back, features a 41.5mm case and comes delivered with both an alligator and rubber strap.
Caliber 1120 QP/1
Where the Vacheron Constantin perpetual calendar really comes into its own is the movement. The caliber 1120 QP/1 is a 2.75 Hz movement with a 40-hour power reserve and automatic winding.
It’s 29.6mm in diameter and comes in at just 4.05 mm thick which is impressive when stacked up against other perpetual calendars on the market, as it is in nearly 1mm thinner than comparable brands’ closest competitors.
The perpetual calendar needs no manual correction of the date until the year 2100 and does so with the movement’s 276 individual components. The base caliber, the Vacheron Constantin 1120, is a remarkable movement in its own right and has been recognized in the watchmaking industry for decades, and utilized by many an elite brand.
Vacheron Constantin built on that and have produced an impressive perpetual calendar that they can certainly be proud of.
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
The Vacheron Constantin is up against some stiff competition in the Men’s Complication category this year with the likes of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, the Krayon Everywhere Horizon and Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece. However, just to be nominated for such a prestigious award shows that it belongs amongst such great watches.
The Vacheron is a classic watch, with understated styling that has the horological prowess to back it up. Whilst it may not be the thinnest perpetual calendar or the most impressive offering in its category at the 2018 GPHG, it can certainly hold its own and is a very impressive watch.