Born in 2008, the Perlée collection draws its golden beads from the Maison’s history. Present in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations since the 1920s to highlight stones and motifs, they took on more generous forms from 1948 onwards. On necklaces, bracelets, rings and watches, they multiplied in a variety of dimensions.
From 1963, in a period characterized by lithe and fluid forms, the golden beads took on a joyful aspect in the Twist collection. Alternating with other materials, beaded spirals combined with coral, turquoise or cultured pearls. From 1968, they also found a place in the Alhambra collection, framing the symbol of luck with a golden contour. With the Perlée collection, the Maison has dreamed up feminine creations: Perlée pearls of gold, Perlée couleurs, Perlée diamonds, Perlée clovers and Perlée signature.
For each creation, the diamonds used by Van Cleef & Arpels are chosen according to the most stringent gemological criteria: D to F for color and IF to VVS for clarity. Their intense sparkle on the Perlée diamonds pieces is magnified by the openwork gold structure, enabling the light to pass through.
The hard stones also meet the Maison’s high standards. The poetry of the deep green malachite has its roots in the regular striations that run through its surface, while the onyx stands out for its brilliant black color. The turquoise displays an intense and harmonious blue, while the carnelian has been selected for the consistency of its warm hue, accentuated by careful polishing. New rare materials in the Perlée collection this year, the lapis lazuli and coral respectively present a very deep blue finely sprinkled with pyrite, and a bright and joyful orange accentuated by a smooth and regular surface.
Secret watches
The Maison’s expertise can also be seen in the Perlée watchmaking creations, which combine French and Swiss savoir-faire: the gold structure of the watches and pendant is created in workshops in France, while the dials and movements are assembled in Meyrin, in Switzerland. For the first time, the collection’s golden beads come together in a joyful dance to create two styles of secret jewelry watches: a bracelet and a pendant, with a design never seen before in Van Cleef & Arpels’ watchmaking collections.
Inspired by the “toi et moi” jewelry style, the bracelet watches feature two different-sized motifs opposite one another on an open bangle. The larger of the two pivots to reveal a white mother-of-pearl dial surrounded by a border of round diamonds. In keeping with the Perlée collection’s playful spirit, each of these three pieces offers a different association of colors and materials. On the first, green malachite provides a joyful contrast to the colors of coral and pink gold, while lapis lazuli complements the brilliance of diamonds and yellow gold on the second. In a luminous harmony, the third watch combines rose gold with the sparkle of diamonds.
Inspired by the watches that appeared in Europe in the 17th century, the last creation takes the form of a pendant in rose gold set with diamonds. Like a jewel, it is worn on a chain as a long necklace to complement its wearer’s silhouette. By sliding the paved surface to reveal the dial, the hour can be read with discretion.
