Intimate and secret

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Intimate and secret  - Watchmaking and the Place Vendôme
3 minutes read
A city square, two symbols and an infinite number of variations: the Place Vendôme continues to fascinate watch designers. WorldTempus conducted a survey of some of its visible references and secret signatures.

Some locations continue to exert a magnetic fascination. More often than not, they are publicly accessible architectural landmarks, and they lend themselves to conveying a particular idea – luxury, a particular lifestyle, craftsmanship or excellence, perhaps. That’s why, when we see Chopard and Montblanc lighting up “the Croisette”, any mention of Cannes or its world-famous Festival would be superfluous. The same goes for Jaquet Droz, who put the “Jet d’eau” on their Bird Repeater: we’re in Geneva, obviously.

The Place Vendôme is a prime example of the phenomenon; it has retained its iconic status for jewellers and watchmakers alike, both Swiss and French, yesterday and today. Why? Many reasons. The first is the square’s geometry. There is the octagonal shape of the Place itself, as well as the famous column at its centre – fertile soil for a talented designer.

Chanel brought attention to the eight-sided geometry of the Place Vendôme by designing the case of its Première watch to mirror the shape exactly.

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Jeweller Graff also placed this iconic shape at the heart of its Vendôme Lady collection. The collection was unveiled in parallel with the opening of the company’s flagship store in the Place Vendôme. The design brings a different touch, since the gem-set lugs at the top and bottom also provide a visual reference to the road that bisects the square. 

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Totalling columns
The Vendôme Column has tended to inspire less obvious tributes. The latest to date comes from Hublot and its special series, the Classic Fusion Vendôme Collection. The watch was created to celebrate the fifth anniversary of the opening of the company’s Paris boutique, which is located in the square. The dial is a symbol of the 44-metre-high column erected in 1810 which, according to legend, was clad in bronze melted down from cannons captured from Napoleon’s enemies.

As a tribute, the dial of the Classic Fusion Vendôme Collection is in oxidised bronze with a verdigris patina. Because of the metal’s susceptibility to oxidisation, which could limit the life of both watch and movement, Hublot’s watchmakers have enclosed it in a sapphire capsule to limit its contact with air, making it resistant to corrosion. A final nod to the Place Vendôme can be found in the H of Hublot, which has one of its uprights replaced by an image of the column.

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Chaumet’s bird’s-eye view
The last example of a discreet reference to the Place Vendôme can be found in the Liens by Chaumet. The watch makes two coded references, which are largely unknown except to enthusiasts. The first is hiding in plain sight: the index 12 is a reference to the “12 Place Vendôme” address of the maison. In fact, number 12 is the only hôtel particulier in the entire square that is owned by a single company – all the others own just a shopfront or a part of the building, or they are tenants.

The second reference is aimed at the more discerning observer: the date window of the Liens between 4 and 5 o’clock is in the same position as “12 Vendôme”, seen from the air. It’s a subtle wink to design and history.

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And finally, history is what led Czapek to call its latest collection... Place Vendôme. The name of the range is a reference to the fact that François Czapek set up one of the first watchmaker’s shops in the 19th century in nearby Rue de la Paix, making him probably the first watchmaker to leave his mark on the Place Vendôme. There are no doubt many more secrets awaiting discovery.

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