For anyone who takes an interest in Ulysse Nardin, the word “monster” will immediately call to mind the Freak, that mechanical wonder like no other. But we’re not here to talk about the Freak. Let’s introduce our theme for today: monsters. Much has been written through the ages on these terrifying, ugly creatures which, at the end of the day, often turn out to be more human than the people hurling epithets at them.
When we use this word, we are taken back to our childhood, when bedtime stories, comic books and films regularly featured monsters hiding in the dark, ready to jump out and scare us. I’m thinking of Quasimodo, Frankenstein, the Loch Ness Monster, or Godzilla.
But all these horrific figures have something in common that is considerably more positive than you might imagine. Once the initial terror has passed, a kind of acceptance takes its place. In the end, these monsters are often just a reflection of our own fears, or our own negative side. Sometimes, they’re actually pretty friendly!
Of course, there are also actual monsters, such as serial killers or war criminals. But is “monster” the correct term for them? If we look at the origins of the word, a monster is in fact just an individual that differs from the norm – which obviously calls into the question the idea of “normality” itself. So, even though it does have negative connotations, the term “monster” isn’t really so bad.
What we can say for sure is that the role of a monster is to disturb and unsettle. Also, we shouldn’t forget that the word monster sometimes carries a positive meaning – who wouldn’t want to have a “monster hit” or a “monster success”?
And that’s where it gets interesting, and where we can start to sketch out a connection with the world of watches. If a monster is abnormal, then what is normal?
Let’s look at the maritime environment, which is rich in monster tales. The creatures qualified as monsters generally turn out to be completely harmless. Their misfortune is that they have an image problem, in that they don’t fit with our preconceptions. Nessie, the Loch Ness monster, has never hurt anyone. The fearsome Kraken is actually just a very big squid (or possibly an octopus).
The creatures described in Claire Nouvian’s magnificent book Abysses are often pretty disturbing to look at. But they aren’t dangerous. What they have in common is their physical otherness, their incompatibility with the norm, and an ability to unsettle us. And because it’s often easier to eradicate them than to understand them, we call them... monsters.
Here’s a final example, which will bring us closer to our Ulysse Nardin: sharks. For many people, these are dangerous, monstrous, threatening creatures. But here in southern California we come across them regularly. Seal Beach has plenty of mother sharks and their young. The males can often be seen hunting in the area, sometimes just a few centimetres from surfers.
Are they dangerous? Perhaps. Are they “monsters”, like Stephen Spielberg’s terrifying Jaws? Probably less so than we are.
So... does the watch industry produce monsters?
That’s an uncomfortable question to consider, but it is important. After all, an excess of normality can kill creativity. If you only produce what people like, you forget how to think and how to take risks. By “forgetting” what is usual, creative types sometimes come up with legendary creations. I’m thinking in particular of the Omega Ploprof.
There’s nothing pretty about this watch. And yet, the watch that some people call “the world’s most beautiful ugly watch” has its own definite look, its own style. Omega’s PLOngeuse PROFessionnelle (professional diver), whose weird appearance is determined by its technical functions, is far from being the only abnormal watch. Over the last few years, a number of watchmakers have begun to defy the usual conventions and norms.
Over the last few years, a number of watchmakers have begun to defy the usual conventions and norms.
There are the fabulous creations of Maximilien Busser, whose world is full of monsters and marvellous creatures. There’s nothing normal about his watches. His Aquapod probably bears the greatest similarity to the monsters of the deep.
We could also point to the Joker by Konstantin Chaykin which… I’m never quite sure if it makes me want to laugh or cry.
Then there are the incredible Artya watches by Yvan Arpa – an ode to difference, and an exercise in mechanical provocation.
So, as you can see, we do have monsters in watchmaking, and that’s a very good thing.
To pay tribute to them, I have decided to talk about the highly provocative Diver Deep Dive. This extreme diver from UN genuinely deserves the epithet “monster”, particularly since it is a homage to a rather unusual fish, the hammerhead shark.
Why Ulysse Nardin?
The company was founded in 1846 by Ulysse Nardin.
One of the characteristics of the brand is that it developed a strong connection with the nautical world from very early on, by specialising in marine chronometers. Back then, these timepieces were much more than just clocks. They were essential navigation instruments, and ships relied upon their accuracy to guarantee their safety. The Le Locle firm has even won several prizes as a result of its efforts to develop ever more precise timepieces.
Recently, Ulysse Nardin launched the Mega Yacht, an incredible – and monstrous – mechanical smartwatch in platinum featuring some unique nautical complications.
In addition to these navigation instruments, Ulysse Nardin has continued to innovate, constantly bringing out new and different horological interpretations. One defining moment for this spirit of innovation was the launch, a little over 15 years ago, of the notorious Freak, a watch that defied all norms and offered some major technological innovations. It was a watch without a crown or any real dial, and with a partially “levitating” movement.
Today the brand is owned by the Kering group, and its watches succeed in combining the classic with the unusual, a particularly refreshing trait in an industry that, even today, remains overly conservative.
So, as we prepare to say goodbye to the last of the summer, let’s take a closer look at the Triple D (Diver Deep Dive), the latest sea monster to emerge from Le Locle.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive: from Charybdis to Scylla
You’ve probably heard of Scylla and Charybdis, but you might not know that they are the two sea monsters who tried to prevent Odysseus (aka Ulysses) from crossing the Straits of Messina. And so, Homer’s Odyssey leads us neatly to this diving watch, which is water resistant to a depth of 1000 metres.
The Diver Deep Dive is first and foremost a watch intended for the ocean depths.
It is massive (its diameter is over 46 mm), made of titanium and stuffed full of technical gizmos, which contribute to its unusual appearance. The enormous crown is located at two o’clock, which is another distinctly abnormal choice. It is protected by a lever that bears a passing resemblance to the mechanism found on the Hublot Diver 4000. The rubber-sheathed titanium bezel is fluted to provide a secure grip when wearing gloves.
The dial is blue and graced with hammerhead sharks (I’ll come back to this detail later), and the oversized hands are filled with Luminova to provide visibility in the murky deep. At five o’clock we have a small seconds subdial, an essential element of any self-respecting dive watch. Without this little hand it would be impossible to tell whether the mechanical movement is working or not.
Ulysse Nardin has equipped its Diver Deep Dive with the self-winding automatic movement UN 320, which comes complete with some of the brand’s signature innovations, including a silicon balance spring. The back is closed, which makes it impossible to admire the finish of the movement.
Another essential feature for a dive watch is an HEV (Helium Escape Valve), situated here on the left side of the case. Because of how it protrudes, it looks more like a winding crown than a valve. But its appearance does contribute to the offbeat look of the watch.
On the dial and sides, there is a shoal of hammerhead sharks. As its name suggests, our Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to this marine monster which, in fact, is not particularly terrifying after all. And if you turn the watch over, you’ll see a hammerhead shark engraved on the back, its teeth bared in what looks quite a lot like... a smile!
Finally, the Deep Dive comes with a rubber strap with titanium inserts, a design common to all Ulysse Nardin’s diving watches.
This extreme watch by Ulysse Nardin owns its choices and makes no compromises. You either like it or you don’t. But like any watch that falls out of the ordinary, I advise you to take your time before passing judgement, because it has a great deal of charm.
What does the Devil’s Advocate think?
Monsters, fear, mysterious creatures... The Devil’s Advocate loves it! For isn’t he, like his “client”, a monster too?
But seriously, what is there in this watch to find fault with? Nothing. Or everything. Once again, it’s an extreme piece with a highly distinctive design. Personally, I think it’s interesting. My only quibble is with the plethora of tiny sharks. The dial is amazing, but the red shark on the seconds indicator is just one too many.
And while I agree that the strap is very comfortable, I’m not a fan of the titanium inserts, which are a little too in-your-face. But apart from that, our Hammerhead Shark is a fine watch, which now deserves to be taken for a dip!
How to wear the Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive with style
No, no, no. This time, we’re not having any suits or dress pants.
The Deep Dive is a dive watch, so we’ll look at how to wear it with style – in a swimsuit!
The trunks in question will be the Orlebar Brown James Bond LE swim shorts, which are identical to the garment worn by Sean Connery in Goldfinger. Or you could pick the Thunderball version, which are more colourful and also more fun. For the top half there aren’t too many options, a T-shirt is the only way to go.
And there, you are spoilt for choice. I still prefer the standard Apolis crew, in white or grey.
If a stiff breeze should come up, why not throw on one of the rather fun “beach blazers” by 209Mare, a distinctly unusual choice.
On your feet, you’ll need a pair of Tod’s Riviera penny loafers in orange suede, or the more classic brown.
Finally, to carry your beach accessories, nothing beats a Berluti travel bag from the Beach Collection.
There, you’re ready to go for a dip. Don’t forget the sun cream, and watch out for those sharks!
Bon bain !
