The Highest Recognition

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An Early Taste of Poetic Wish - Van Cleef & Arpels
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Van Cleef & Arpels received five GPHG nominations this year, putting a feminine expression of timekeeping at the forefront of the competition.

The yearly countdown has begun! On Thursday 10 November, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) holds its 21st prize ceremony at the Théâtre du Léman, rewarding the most exciting watches released in the last 12 months. The number of horological categories open for competition this year comes to 15, one more than last year, signalling an expansion of scope for the watchmaking industry’s most prestigious event. This is not inclusive of prizes such as the Aiguille d’Or, the ultimate accolade of the GPHG, and discretionary categories such as the Special Jury Prize.

Watchmaker-jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the brands with the most nominations at the 2022 edition of the GPHG, showing its established prowess in the categories oriented more towards the feminine wrist. A total of five Van Cleef & Arpels timepieces have been pre-selected for the last round of voting, each of them among the final six in their respective categories. 

In the category of Ladies’ Watch, the Perlée 23mm celebrates the iconic decorative motif of the maison, with a delicate bracelet of spherical links leading up to a round case similarly haloed by a double ring of tiny gold orbs. A white mother-of-pearl guilloché dial catches the light, echoing the reflections of the faceted hands. 

 

 

La plus haute reconnaissance

Complex mechanical movements are by no means uncommon at Van Cleef & Arpels, evidenced by the many years of Poetic Complications from the brand, many of them featuring visually whimsical but technically sophisticated mechanisms within them. The Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch, pre-selected in the Ladies’ Complication category, utilises a totally innovative (and patented) system to display the time. On a series of sculpted-gold cherry tree branches, 12 gem-set flowers open and shut throughout the day, the number of open blossoms indicating the hour. The flowers do not open cumulatively. Instead, the open blossoms close at the end of the hour, and a new set of flowers open at the beginning of the next hour, creating a horological botanical dance.

La plus haute reconnaissance

The Jewellery category highlights the expertise of Van Cleef & Arpels and the quality of the stones used in its creations. The Perles de Glace Rose watch is set on a jewel-encrusted bracelet with a diamond-set dial that redefines the phrase “dazzling time”.

The Highest Recognition

Van Cleef & Arpels’ fourth watch competing in the GPHG is the Charms Coccinelle Féerique watch, pre-selected in the Artistic Crafts category. The Charms collection has always taken an imaginative approach to decorative timepieces, combining lucky symbols, such as the ladybird that features on the painted dial and as a dangling charm at the 4 o’clock position, with ethereal depictions of fairies in gossamer dresses and wings. The combination of micro-sculpture, miniature painting and gem-setting make this watch a true contender in its category.

La plus haute reconnaissance

Finally, the newest segment in the GPHG, the Mechanical Clock category, features a massive automaton in the form of the Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux. Two crested birds of paradise, executed in gold and gemstones, enact a courtship dance when the automaton is activated, chirping and moving their heads and wings, lifting their legs in simulacrum of one of nature’s most romantic and spectacular ornithological displays. The lake in the centre of the clock ripples, and a dragonfly rises from its depths, seemingly hypnotised by the dancing birds, while a water lily unfurls its petals. This masterpiece is made possible by the concerted efforts of an entire team of craftsmen, from gem-setters to micro-sculptors, lacquer and enamel artists and lapidaries — a fitting entry to commemorate this new category in watchmaking’s most glamorous annual event.

This is just the start of our GPHG coverage. Next week, we will be looking at Parmigiani's five nominations in detail. 

The Highest Recognition

 

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Nicolas Bos