WORLDTEMPUS - 21 January 2012
Miguel Seabra
Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin introduced its first tonneau-shaped wristwatch in 1912. One hundred years later, the redesign of the iconic Malte collection was the main element among the manufacture's novelties unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie – along with a 14-day tourbillon in the Patrimony Traditionelle line and three more Métiers d'Art models.
Since including the tonneau shape in its collection a century ago, Vacheron Constantin has been playing with forms and introducing different types of elegant tonneau cases. The previous tonneau Malte collection was introduced in 2001 and successfully adopted stylized lugs inspired by the Maltese Cross, whereas the new Malte collection adds cleaner lugs to a differently proportioned gold or platinum case to make a slimmer look. The sand-blasted, silver-toned dials with baton hour markers enhance the overall classicism and elegance.
Calibers and gauges
The updates on the Malte collection aren't just aesthetics. Vacheron Constantin jumped on the opportunity to present a new shaped movement – Caliber 2795 with tourbillon – within the line's star model: the Malte Tourbillon is Vacheron Constantin's first wristwtach to be fully created in accordance with the new Seal of Geneva criteria. The other three models are the Malte Small Seconds, the Malte Small and the Malte 100th Anniversary Edition. The latter celebrates a century of tonneau models.
But the masterpiece among the new watches introduced by the brand at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie was the supremely elegant Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon – the first Vacheron Constantin timepiece to be created in accordance with the new Seal of Geneva criteria. Its new Caliber 2260 features a two-week power reserve display on an opaline silver-toned dial highlighted by a beautiful tourbillon whose cage design is inspired by the emblematic Maltese Cross. The lengthy power reserve is achieved by use of four spring barrels mounted in coupled pairs – all four of which unwind simultaneously, but four times slower than a single barrel. The quartet of spring barrels amount to a total length of about 2.2 meters. In addition to the longer power reserve, the barrels provide a stable rate over a longer period of time. The frequency is slow for reduction of energy consumption and close to a human heartbeat: 18,000 vph – as classic as it gets.
Métiers d'Art
Vacheron Constantin says its Métiers d'Art collection perpetuates sometimes neglected crafts with ancient origins, “crystallizing the human challenges that have forged these skills from generation to generation and conveying the brand's deep-felt attachment to humanity's cultural heritage.” This year's new Métiers d'Art Les Univers Infinis line is inspired by the work of Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis Escher and combines graphic art with watchmaking's decorative arts, which include enameling, gem setting, engraving and guilloché.
