The late 2000s was an interesting period for the brand, and one that delivered a significant surprise in 2008: a new watch collection designed with input directly from the US Navy SEALs. This elite squadron is not one to go light on specifications in any respect, leading to a large but lightweight diving alarm that measures 44mm in diameter and has a depth rating of no less than 300m. The use of oversized numerals and matte finishes all play into the tactical nature of its design, but not in a way that compromises function in the least. Its bezel is matte dark grey ceramic, and its large indices and hands are generously packed with Super-LumiNova®
One innovation seen across the entire Master Compressor line — and one we’ve come to thoroughly enjoy from a functional standpoint — is the use of these unique crown locks affixed to their oversized crowns. The top crown is used to set the alarm, whereas the lower crown handles the time. Rotating the locks by 180 degrees will unlock the crown and allow them to perform their necessary functions. Turning them back 180 degrees will once again lock them, preventing any accidental setting adjustment and blocking potential water ingress. Both crowns are of large size, and also rubberised to ensure ease of operation even when wearing a wetsuit.
To be fair, we have to take all of this “functional application” commentary with a grain of salt. In the late 2000s, no Navy SEAL (or other member of an elite tactical unit) would actually be going out into the field and using a mechanical luxury watch of this calibre. Frogmen would be using diving computers, and you’d be more likely to see a G-Shock in use on missions than anything else. What’s more, when your operations centre around lurking in the shadows, one would presume that the buzz of a mechanical alarm would be flagged as a flight risk. That said, we’re still talking about a period in watchmaking when big tank-like watches were reaching their peak. 44 and 47mm Panerai models were turning up on celebs left and right, alongside the bigger and bigger Royal Oak Offshores and other oversized sports watches.
Unorthodox Choices
With or without the aforementioned context, the Master Compressor Navy SEALs Alarm stands strongly in its category. A 300m water resistance rating is more than enough for a watch like this, though fairly standard for the time. That said, there are a couple of details on this watch that are a fair step away from the norm. One more subtle detail is the placement of the brand’s name, logo, and water resistance. What would typically be referred to as dial text is not printed on the dial at all, but rather on the other side of its domed sapphire crystal. While they aren’t the first to do this, it was certainly an uncommon practice at that time — not to mention one that makes perfect sense for the watch in question.
Rather than using a dedicated hand for its alarm indication, Jaeger-LeCoultre frequently uses a central disc in the centre of its dials to provide this function. References without an external bezel — the Polaris, as well as other Memovox models — typically have a reasonable amount of space remaining in which to place dial text. Between the addition of a timing bezel and the use of oversized indices, space on the dial of the Master Compressor Navy SEALs Alarm was rather limited, but as you can see based on placement, that wasn’t the only reason for the decision.
An alarm complication is meant to be used, and thus rotating the inner alarm disc means the logo and text will not remain in the 12 o’clock position. Those more familiar with the brand will remember the original 1959 Deep Sea Alarm from JaegerLeCoultre that had printed text on its alarm disc. It was a lovely piece, mind you, but it always looked a little cockeyed when the alarm was set to anywhere other than its home position. By moving the text under the crystal, the Navy SEALs is left with a more modern and functional aesthetic than its predecessor.
In addition to this detail, the choice of a rubberised titanium bracelet for the Master Compressor Navy SEALs Alarm was equally unorthodox. Although once again not the only watch to be outfitted this way, the material choice is well suited to a watch that is meant to face heavy wear and tear. Its matte finish is also well aligned with the tactical nature of a case designed for Navy SEALs use. On one hand, it’s likely equally as resilient as a good DLC coating when it comes to scuffs and scratches (if not more), and it’s also going to make less noise if and when the watch gets bumped against other solid surfaces. That said, the watch was also offered with optional fabric and leather strap options that would solve the same problems.
Much like the Polaris Memovox that graces nearby pages, the watch is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s self-winding Calibre 956: one of very few modern alarm movements on offer from any luxury watch brands, and one that was designed and manufactured entirely by the brand. It delivers a power reserve of 44 hours, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and is built from 271 individual components. It is fitted with a quick-set date complication, alongside running hours, minutes, seconds, and its mechanical alarm.
Regardless of whether you’re an active Navy SEAL, someone who likes to act like one on weekends, or rather just a person who is not afraid to wear their watches when tackling any sort of more “adventurous” or risky task, this is the kind of watch that’s more than ready to tag along for the ride; there’s little surprise that it easily earns a spot as one of the best in the modern era.
This year GMT Magazine and WorldTempus have embarked on the ambitious project of summarising the divers watch since 2000 in The Millennium Watch Book - Divers watch, a big, beautifully laid out coffee table book. This article is an extract. The Millennium Watch Book - Divers watch is available in both French and English here:
