There is a meaning implicit in some of the terms watch brands use for their new launches. A “line extension” simply means adding some new variations to an existing “line”, which may itself be part of a “collection”. But when a brand talks about a “pillar” it is something more: a cornerstone of the entire offering, something big and important that doesn’t come along every year.
The Polaris collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre is just such a pillar. Fifty years since the first model bearing the name was launched, the brand from the Vallée de Joux is back with a full collection of new, resolutely sporty watches ranging from a simple automatic up to a worldtimer chronograph. The collection gets its name not from the North Star but from an American nuclear missile that was part of the deterrent during the Cold War. The historical connotation would seem quaint were it not for the current geopolitical situation.
Collectors and vintage watch fans might single out the limited-edition Polaris Memovox for particular attention and those with a good memory might recall that the self-winding Calibre 956 movement with mechanical alarm that powers this watch first saw the light of day back in 2008 in another tribute to the Polaris, the “Memovox Tribute to Polaris”, which was a limited edition of 768. The new release is also a limited edition, this time of 1,000, with plenty of nods to the original, such as the black dial and vanilla SuperLuminova on the hands and hour markers. The hands and hour markers themselves, however, as well as the rotating inner bezel, have been given a more contemporary design and a new embossed rubber strap completes this successful marriage of vintage and modern.
The new Polaris Date has the same look, with the closed case back and 200 metre water resistance as found on the original Polaris model of 1968, together with the raised glass box style crystal. Although devoid of the mechanical alarm function, it retains the two characteristic crowns of the Polaris, one for setting the time and the other for rotating the internal bezel. It is equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 899/1 – a self-winding movement with a 38-hour power reserve.
At the sportier end of the collection is the Polaris Chronograph Worldtime, which has a generous 44mm diameter case in lightweight titanium and a rotating internal city disc that can be operated using the additional crown at 10 o’clock and see the time in 24 different time zones. It is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 752 self-winding chronograph, which has a 65-hour power reserve.
Without the world time mechanism, the standard chronograph is available in stainless steel and rose gold (the only precious-metal model in the new Polaris collection). With redesigned pushers, a deliberately thinner bezel, oversized triangular markers and contrasting finishes on the dial, the new Polaris Chronograph ensures excellent legibility. It is powered by the Calibre 752 self-winding movement, which offers 65 hours of power reserve.
Last but not least is the date-less Polaris Automatic, which retains all the signature features of the Polaris, including the double crowns and rotating inner bezel. Available in stainless steel in a 41mm diameter case and with a leather strap or brand-new three-link stainless-steel bracelet, it is the perfect all-round watch, which is exactly what Jaeger-LeCoultre was aiming for with this new collection. The Polaris has aged well over the past 50 years – something that is not about to change with this timeless new incarnation.
