TRIBUNE DES ARTS – 4 novembre 2011
Sylvie Guerreiro - translation: Elizabeth Doerr
For all those involved in the world of watchmaking, Arnaud Tellier is something like a living, breathing encyclopedia. With a background in vintage watchmaking and restoration, he has been in charge of the prestigious Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva for the past eleven years. In fact, you could say he is something like the living memory of the brand. Some readers will remember that he also spent the decade from 1990 to 2000 as an expert and auctioneer at Antiquorum, the international auction house based in the heart of Geneva. On the occasions one met with him, he always wore a very classic watch on his wrist. That is, until now.
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Suddenly resigning from his post at the museum last July, one could have imagined he would begin consulting. However, he chose a completely different path, and now reappears on the scene with an astonishing model on his wrist, simultaneously passing around pictures of further creations to come. He has just opened Tellier Fine Arts, a company specialized in expert opinions, advice, and dealing in art (particularly watchmaking). Most importantly, however, is the fact that he also just founded the brand 2lmx – ultimate horology. If one considers this mini-brand a member of the trend toward “new horology,” it is important to remember that its watches are neither concept watches nor “time machines,” upon which the aesthetics are not necessarily the best and upon which it is often hard to read the time. Frankly, such watches are sometimes not even wearable.
Tour de force
Nevertheless, the current economical situation is not necessarily the most optimal one in which to launch a new brand. So why would he do this? “2mlx – ultimate horology is the code name for a group of friends, all in their 40s,” answers Tellier. “They include a watchmaker, a micromechanical operator, a draftsman, a digital industrial idea man, a case maker, and a website and animated film creator. All of them have worked in the watch industry for 15 to 20 years. Recognized as specialists in what they do, they are active as suppliers for major brands. The goal of 2mlx is to produce a few timepieces per year in an exclusive and unique way, to give form to new ideas, to produce watchmaking -- just watchmaking, nothing more, and only that. At the moment, we don't have any financial pressure and only need to meet our production expenses. What interests us is the desire to accomplish this, the technical, innovative and aesthetic challenge. I have the advantage of knowing who I'll sell our first pieces to, on ‘subscription' of course.”
100 hours of power reserve
Tellier explains that this watch “was not made on an established workbench around the corner. It can only be achieved by means of modern production processes. The display of hours and the minutes by cylinder is completely new and novel. Several patents concerning the forms and the names protect it. And the time is clearly legible.” Behind the very contemporary design comprising gracious curves and audacious volumes there beats a manufacture caliber with 100 hours of power reserve supplied by two barrels axially positioned in the center of the movement. The gear train, also vertically positioned, is regulated by a one-minute tourbillon with rotating a Swiss lever escapement beating at 18,000 vph. The caliber, which is hand-finished and -assembled, is crafted in steel, gold and titanium. The case will be available in gold, platinum or titanium. Only the movement's ruby jewel bearings, the sapphire crystals of the case, and the bracelet are outsourced. The first 2lmx should be ready for delivery in 2012 and only a dozen of them are scheduled to be produced each year. Tellier is bound and determined to go to the Grand Prix de l'Horlogerie de Genève next year with his novel timepiece. While waiting to see the real thing early next year, an animated movie is available for the curious at www.2lmx.com.
Infos om www.2lmx.com
