New timepiece for the horology of the future

GMT XXL - Summer 2009

It took more than two and a half years of development for the De Bethune Manufacture to present the final version of its silicon/titanium Tourbillon, the lightest tourbillon in the world with a remarkable frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. This tourbillon differs from others in its design, which has been adapted and calculated for a wristwatch, as opposed to existing tourbillons which are smaller versions of those used in pocket watches.

So it was necessary to design a tourbillon with the highest frequency and rotational speed combined with the smallest weight and inertia. What emerged from the De Bethune R&D workshops was a tourbillon created in silicon and titanium with a form that is more reminiscent of the exo-skeleton of an insect than of a mechanical watch. The structure of the cage is made of silicon and titanium, not with the traditional pillars which are too heavy and bulky, but with a U and S-shaped frame, which also serves as the seconds hand for maximum lightness. The escape wheel, the centre of the balance and the pallet cock are also made of silicon. The total weight of this architectural tourbillon is 0.18 grams (4 times lighter than a conventional tourbillon). To give more detailed figures, the lightest part weighs less than 0.0001 gram! All the parts have been shaped by nanotechnology and high speed 5-axis machining.

This tourbillon is available in two versions. The first version has a silicon and platinum thermo-compensated balance for lovers of high technology. The second version uses the patented De Bethune titanium / platinum balance which is a source of inspiration for many of the brand's developments. This jewel of technology is enclosed in a platinum case with mobile strap attachments, the twin sister of the DBW1 which revealed the first annular silicon / platinum balance. The dial is made of titanium with a microlight effect, produced by high-precision milling and then sanded before finally being blued in an oven at a temperature of more than 750 °C.

After fascinating devotees of watchmaking during the year 2008 by unveiling Dream Watch One, a unique piece in pursuit of perfect horological harmony, the De Bethune brand now gives people the opportunity to acquire this exceptional timepiece. The DBW1 is a real technological achievement. This year the display is just as exciting on the dial as it is on the back of the watch. Seen first of all through the dial is an annular balance in silicon which conceals the balance spring and has the effect of a mirror, unique in the world of horology.

For the first time ever, this timepiece allows every owner to adjust their watch personally according to their way of life: a fundamental step forward in the art of watchmaking. By simply pressing on one of the two push-pieces on the back of the watch, the owner of this timepiece can adjust its rate according to the rhythm of their life. This simple action is a remarkable technological feat: by applying a simple external pressure, the heart of the watch is reached through a system of reduction arms and levers in a way that conveys the gesture perfectly. For ease of use, the extent of the adjustment is indicated in red through a window in the back of the watch.

Everything in this watch appears to be simple but it is in fact extremely complex. The simple oscillator of the mechanical calibre DB2016, wholly designed within the Manufacture, is a genuine achievement in the world of watchmaking. The balance spring of the regulating organ is not visible; it is concealed within an annular balance consisting of a central silicon disc surrounded by a thin ring of polished platinum which can be seen through the dial. In a play of various finishes, the rhodium-plated and steel dial has matt, burnished and polished aspects, giving a continuous effect of light and shade. Even the platinum case has pivoted lugs so that it follows the shape of the wrist perfectly.

While the uncluttered appearance of the DB26's case and the dial reveals the exacting mastery of the various crafts carried out within the De Bethune workshops, it also serves the better to conceal within its heart a new calibre, the DB2005, a perpetual calendar movement wholly developed and produced in the manufacture.

At first glance, it is the sapphire hands surrounded by hand-blued steel which attract the eye. The duo David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet have conceived and designed hands of perfect transparency which enable the person wearing this timepiece to read all the indications displayed in the windows of this perpetual calendar with the greatest of ease. Whatever the position of the hands, the date, the day and the month can be clearly read. Then, for a fleeting moment, one admires the De Bethune spherical moon rotating on its own axis, accurately indicating the phases of the celestial body. The pink or grey palladium gold plated case has various special features which are revealed as soon as the watch is placed on the wrist. The moving cradles to which the strap is attached enable the timepiece to adapt itself perfectly to the size of its owner's wrist. The winding crown is at 6 o'clock so as to form a perfect osmosis with the watch.

Incorporating all the latest De Bethune technologies, this hand-wound mechanical calibre DB 2005 consists of 339 components and has a self-adjusting double spring barrel, especially designed to eliminate friction and to transmit the maximum amount of energy efficiently. At the heart of the regulating organ is the titanium / platinum balance with flat terminal curve protected by the triple parachute anti-shock system which reduces variations to a minimum and protects the pivots. With its lightness, this balance enables mechanical friction to be reduced and it has an ideal inertia/ mass ratio. The shape of the weights on the balance reduces the effect of viscous air friction.