2025 will go down in Breguet’s history, not only as the year of its 250th anniversary, but also as that of its grand return to the haute horlogerie scene under the leadership of its new CEO Gregory Kissling. The members of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Academy were not mistaken, awarding it the highest GPHG prize last month, the Aiguille d’Or, just one year after his energetic assumption of office. The awarded piece was the Classique Souscription, the first launch of this anniversary year. Nine in total were announced, unveiled in as many stages around the world, brilliantly revisiting the Maison’s various collections. Until the grand finale on December 1st in Paris, the host city of the famous Royal Marine Watchmaker where he had opened his workshop on the Quai de l’Horloge, the legendary address forever associated with his name.
Waltz in three movements
The event unfolded in three stages: at the Breguet boutique on Place Vendôme to unveil, during a cocktail, two stunning new minute repeaters (a limited series of 25 39mm wristwatches and a close-to-the-wrist watch combining grand complications and métiers d’art); secondly at the Naval Museum to reveal and explain the concept of the new "Experimental" collection; and finally at the Grand Trianon Palace (part of the Château de Versailles estate) for an enlightened visit connecting Breguet and Marie-Antoinette, followed by a gala dinner bringing together a selection of international journalists and Breguet clients from around the world. Such an event had not been organized by the brand for about fifteen years. Everything was perfectly coordinated, and all participants expressed genuine satisfaction with the rediscovered dynamism of the legendary brand. This highlight takes on a special significance as the new Experimental collection demonstrates ambitions in line with Breguet’s heritage and Gregory Kissling’s passion for the product. This was to the great delight of Emmanuel Breguet, seventh-generation descendant and Director of the brand’s heritage, who was on cloud nine during the event.
"Science in the broad sense linked to design"
The Experimental line represents far more than a new collection within Breguet’s portfolio: it embodies its renewal but above all the spirit of its founder, deeply rooted in research and development. For Gregory Kissling, it is about paying tribute to the founder’s inventions, his entrepreneurial spirit, and his talent for innovation, while using today’s techniques and knowledge. The name Experimental is directly associated with this R&D approach; Abraham-Louis Breguet called his prototypes "pièces d’essai," some of which can be found sold at auction under names such as "Experimental Tourbillon," for example. The manifestation of this new line takes the form of a Marine, but it can also be developed transversally across the Classique, Tradition, Type XX families, etc. "The goal is, moreover, to keep it alive every year, and the projects are numerous, as the brand’s archives and drawers are full of treasures," enthuses the CEO. Indeed, he bases his product strategy on a threefold approach: fundamental research, movements, and collections.
Beyond the concept, the inaugural timepiece of this new line commands respect, both aesthetically and technically, even setting a new milestone in watchmaking history as the piece highlights the pioneering role of the brand, which had been in retreat for too long. For Gregory Kissling, "the Experimental program now aims to highlight this R&D, which illuminates watchmaking through its work on materials, electromagnetism, vibrational mechanics, and acoustics. Science in the broad sense linked to design." Upon taking office, he discovered a magnetic escapement project on which the teams had been working for nearly ten years, and he asked them to prioritize it: the magnetic escapement, a technological breakthrough. The Experimental 1 is thus equipped with the very first high-frequency (10 Hz) tourbillon with a magnetic escapement, also distinguished by its constant force transmitted to the balance.
This limited series of 75 Breguet gold pieces brings together two patented inventions of its founder, the tourbillon and constant force, furthering fundamental work and integrating this major new innovation of the magnetic escapement. This trilogical solution meets the pursuit of precision by improving three variables: the constancy of the balance’s amplitude, the influence of Earth’s gravity, and shock resistance.
Brio and tempo
This system includes two escapement wheels, each equipped with a magnetic track, at the center of which beats a pallet with magnetic pallets as well. According to the brand’s engineers, "this new escapement allows the impulses transmitted to the balance, the rotation of the escapement wheel, and therefore the rest of the gear train, to be decoupled. The inertia of the tourbillon cage has almost no influence, unlike a Swiss lever movement." Thus, the 10 Hz magnetic escapement tourbillon proves to be much more stable and precise than most contemporary wristwatches, traditionally paced at 2.5 Hz. The Experimental 1 also bears the Breguet seal (which includes aesthetic, ethical, and technical criteria), in the “Scientific” category: with a guaranteed 24-hour rate precision of +/- 1 second.
The coherence and relevance of this exceptional launch are further evidenced in its design. While the new Experimental line allows for freedom from certain historical constraints in terms of codes, it respects Breguet’s heritage. Starting with its regulator-style display as a nod to reference 1747, created in 1997 for the 250th anniversary of the founder’s birth (hours at 6 o’clock, offset minutes, seconds on the tourbillon at noon). But also through its belonging to the Marine line, particularly inspired by Breguet’s first known marine chronometer, No. 104, and finally by the pocket watch No. 3448, from which it takes the double barrels, this time with four springs to optimize energy. All executed in a very contemporary manner, even more stylized at night thanks to the rounded Superluminova encircling the dial, benefiting from high watchmaking manual finishes.
How to conceive 2026 after such an exceptional year? It seems that three highlights are on the horizon, including a new Experimental at the end of the year.
