What is a complication, and how do they compare? This is a reoccurring topic among watch aficionados, and the Moser watch below stirred some emotions and discussions. At the end of the day the Marie, Brice, and Anders agreed on applauding both novel ideas as well as more classically inclined combinations indicating various astronomical phenomena. In short: The kind of timepieces that have fascinated collectors for centuries.
1. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Moonlight
With a four-layered time-reading display this dial is, literally, one-of-a-kind. Let’s start from the peripheral layer, a CVD-covered brass ring carrying the applied indexes. Above it, a Murano glass disc carries not only the hour indicator, but all twelve zodiacs. Another disc carries the minutes and extends the starry motif by giving you the moon phase. Last but not least, a fourth level caps the one-minute tourbillon cage which doubles up as seconds indicator. This starry contraption is powered by the RD 115 movement, a central flying tourbillon caliber certified by the Poinçon de Genève. Its 282 components flaunt 19 distinct finishing techniques, and the night sky can be personalized to a special date chosen by the owner.
2. H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump, white forged quartz
“Is it really a complication?” was Marie’s spontaneous and fair question. Well, to pump up the jam like the 1980s never left the room makes this 08 o’clock button inspired by Reebok pump sneakers not only an unusual way to charge the mainspring, but it transforms this watch into a time machine. And time machine must surely qualify for being a complication? Each push on the Pump system gives approximately 1 hour of power reserve, and when fully charged with 74 pushes the movement will have a minimum of 74 hours power reserve, which can be followed on the indicator on the dial.
3. Van Cleef and Arpels Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
With a disc-mounted night and day display whose view of the universe is from the moon’s perspective, Van Cleef and Arpels takes its signature complication one step further using Murano aventurine glass with bronze-toned inclusions. But what really sets this timepiece apart from anything else out there is the on-demand moon phase display. At the press of a button everything spins for ten seconds, before giving the current moon phase. Housed in a 42-millimeter white gold case, the automatic movement gives a 36-hour power reserve.
4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanical Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon
The intention with the Master Hybris Mechanical Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon – only 8.25 millimeters thick – was not to make everything transparent. But thanks to selective use of sapphire bridges creates a visual effect as if the components are suspended in space. And since most components are visible, every tiny detail on which 14 different decoration techniques have been used are up for scrutiny. As Jaeger-LeCoultre Product Design Director Lionel Favre said in a recent WorldTempus interview. “Today, complexity is no longer confined to mechanical construction alone; it also lies in the decorative approach and in the way the mechanics are enhanced.”
5. Patek Philippe Reference 6105G-001, Celestial Sunrise and Sunset
This is Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch giving the display of the times of sunrise and sunset for our hometown Geneva. But housed in a 47-millimeter grey gold case this is far from it. One of the six patents pending is relating to corrections for Summer Time and Winter Time, and it also has four rotating crystal discs for celestial phenomena, one being for the celestial vault. When a star is seen on the disc, it can be seen in the Geneva sky.
