WORLDTEMPUS - 8 October 2012
Elizabeth Doerr
Marc Hayek looked resplendent himself in a dapper summer suit as he took the podium in the conference room of Naples' Reggia di Capodimonte museum. As the historical residence of the king and queen of Naples, this beautifully manicured palazzo naturally formed the perfect backdrop for what Nicolas G. Hayek's grandson was about to reveal.
The Queen of Naples line was introduced ten years ago and pays tribute to the fact that Caroline Murat – sister of Napoleon Bonaparte and the reigning queen of Naples – had accepted delivery of Abraham-Louis Breguet's first wristwatch. In fact, Emmanuel Breguet, historian and descendant of the famous watchmaker, explained how this came to pass. Caroline Murat – much like Napoleon – was fascinated by timepieces and collected them. In her lifetime, she bought 34 of Breguet's watches. The one delivered in 1812, however, differed from the rest: it was the first Breguet wristwatch. Co-designed by the particular queen herself, number 2639 was an “oblong repeater” that was delivered two and a half years after it was commissioned for a price of 4,800 French francs. As if those characteristics were not unique enough, one element finally distinguished it from every other watch of its era: it was fastened by a wristlet made of hair woven with gold.
Fittingly celebrated
This double anniversary – 200 years since that watch was delivered and ten years of the modern Queen of Naples line – was fittingly celebrated by the CEO of Breguet and his team with the creation of a very special parure that kicks off a new “feminine” campaign at Breguet.
This special set comprises a ring, a pair of earrings, a necklace, a tiara, and, of course, the very special watch that is a unique piece. All five elements are crafted in platinum, with the “leitmotif” of the oval-cut blue sapphire surrounded by two ovoid rings paved with baguette-cut diamonds echoing the case of the first wristwatch, which boasted an oblong shape. “We tried to convey the same spirit in this watch,” Hayek explained.
The strikingly shaped and decorated wristwatch contains a repeater mechanism that marks the top of every hour with three double chimes. Hayek explained that this way it offers a discreet reminder of the passing of time and a “pioneering spirit in female wristwatches.” In case the wearer would not like to be reminded, a push piece at 2 o'clock disables the function. Extremely demanding in a technical sense due to the fact that it is so small and oval in shape – Caliber 78SO measures 13¼ by 9¾ lignes – this unique movement incorporates the results of fundamental research by Breguet into the acoustics of chiming and repeating watches as well as Breguet's own silicon hairspring. “This allows us to gain in performance,” Hayek confirmed. Additionally, the geometry of the bridges and rotor as well as the finishing visible through the sapphire crystal case back of the watch form the image of a Mediterranean garden pavilion resembling Caroline Murat's stately residences.
The bezel and central lower lug of the anniversary Reine de Naples are set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds and 27 blue sapphires. The hammers of the repeating movement are visible on the dial at 11 and 1 o'clock, while the diamond heart of a gold engraved rose indicates whether the hour will be sounded. The silver-plated gold dial and its flange are paved with 233 brilliant-cut diamonds and 303 gradated blue sapphires. An off-center crown set with a briolette-cut diamond and a folding clasp set with 26 diamonds add the perfect sparkling touch.
With a knowing smile, Hayek explained that the blue sapphire was chosen as the cornerstone for this harmonious suite to mirror the cornflower hue of blued steel that was always, and continues to be, the hallmark element completing the perfectly classic look of a watch by Breguet. Both then and now.
