Worldtempus - 5 October 2012
Carlos Torres
There is one event that probably outshines Baselworld and the SIHH when it comes to putting together watches with the most beautiful and exquisite precious stones. Organized by the Syndicat National des Antiquaires (SNA) since 1956, and taking place every few years, Paris´ Biennale des Antiquaires is an event like no other: over the years, the best antique and art dealers in the world have slowly been ceding space to the likes of Cartier, Chanel, Dior and Piaget. It is here that the most spectacular and valuable jewels and watches produced by Swiss and French “maisons” are exhibited for the pleasure of their most sophisticated and richest clients.
The 2012 edition was set for success when the SNA asked fashion virtuoso Karl Lagerfeld to stage, decorate, and create the visuals for the Biennale. In resurrecting the spirit of Paris' late nineteenth-century shopping arcades, Lagerfeld designed a temporary world within the Grand Palais (originally built in the heart of Paris for the World's Fair in 1900) that served as a perfect backdrop for the thousands of objets d'art on exhibited at the 26th Biennale des Antiquaries. Among several decorative highlights, visitors were genuinely surprised to see a magnificent antique hot air balloon inflated underneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais.
Cartier Montre à Secret in white gold with five engraved rubies weighting 40.91 ct © Carlos Torres / Worldtempus
Cartier
Maison Cartier has been exhibiting at the Biennale since 1964. Conceived by French designer Tristan Auer, Cartier had the largest exhibitor booth at this year's edition. Displayed inside 43 showcases were 148 unique pieces of high jewelry and 12 precious objects, each requiring up to two years of work and mixing different “métiers d'art (crafts). Among these works of art were a number of outstanding timepieces (or rather jewels that tell time) such as the Montre à Secret in white gold, which boasts five engraved rubies weighing 40.91 carats accompanied by brilliant-and rose-cut diamonds. Another remarkable piece was a mechanical eight-day magnetic mystery table clock made of rock crystal, nephrite jade and rubelite that was prominently displayed among the other precious items. Attesting to the success of the exhibit, almost the entire collection on display by Cartier had been sold by the end of the Biennale.
Cartier mechanical eight-day magnetic mystery table clock made of rock crystal, nephrite jade and rubelite © Carlos Torres / Worldtempus
Chanel
Chanel presented more than one hundred high jewelry pieces as well as new jewelry watches from its Mademoiselle Privé collection in a setting exquisitely decorated by American architect Peter Marino. Inspired by lion, comet and feather designs, these original pieces combine the most elaborate techniques of engraving, grand feu enameling, and stone setting to gracefully represent the crafts and techniques so prevalent in contemporary watchmaking. Chanel also celebrated 80 years of jewelry collections with 24 pieces created in honor of the first Bijoux de Diamants collection originally presented by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932, an anniversary collection that draws its inspiration from the symbols that colored Chanel's imagination. Among these, the lion – the astrological symbol of Coco Chanel, who was born on October 19, 1883 – made a big entry into the maison's collection. As an example, an outstanding table clock depicting a lion entirely carved out of rock crystal and decorated with diamonds was exhibited in the show window, a one-of-a-kind piece.
Dior
At Christian Dior, Victoire de Castelanne signed 22 unique and colorful pieces with “Dear Dior,” all inspired by fantasy jewelry that the eponymous couturier put on the wrists of his mannequins during the 1950s. Intended as a tribute to an era of fine appearances, poise and panache, the spirit was very much present within the Dior Pièce Unique and Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse models on display. As refined on the inside as on the outside, the Dior Pièce Unique timepieces are equipped with an Elite movement by Zenith and reveal an oscillating weight harmonizing with the dial in either jade, turquoise or mother-of-pearl, engraved or inlaid and set with diamonds or colored stones. The design of the oscillating weights of the new Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse pieces were inspired by Dior pleats and crafted in jade or opal marquetry.
Dior Pièce Unique nº15 is equipped with an automatic movement; its 33 mm white gold case is set with baguette chromifere tourmalines, diamonds and pink sapphires © Carlos Torres / Worldtempus
Piaget
For its second showing at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Piaget presented its Couture Précieuse jewelry watch collection as well as the Broderie des Diamants jewelry line. In total, 59 high jewelry pieces – four of which were exceptional pieces – and 12 haute joaillerie watches managed to draw the attention of many visitors to the Biennale. A jeweled Altiplano model premiered that still maintained its status as ultra-thin despite the additional height added by the baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds set on the dial. It was accompanied by a rare set of jeweled Emperador cushion-shaped tourbillon timepieces and several high jewelry cuff watches.
All in all, and for these brands in particular, the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires remains the domain of the rare and the outstanding, particularly where jewelry is concerned. Watches are definitely not the main course, but they unquestionably contribute to the glittering atmosphere experienced under the historical glass domes of the Grand Palais. Without a doubt, the Biennale is a venue not to be missed in 2014.
