Breguet has a different type of flagship than most other brands The tourbillon serves as their most attributable feature, as they bear the name of its inventor. It is so central to the brand's existence that they write its name with a capital T. As the complication celebrates the 225th year of its formal birth, i.e. the day Mr. Breguet applied for a patent for his invention, Breguet is changing things up for its tourbillons. Dramatically so.
After having introduced several special pieces to celebrate their foundation's 250th anniversary, the brand is moving on to the next phase of its brand overhaul. Four models (five if you count a platinum version as a separate model), with as many calibers, are receiving new colorways, new finishings, new materials and new dials...as well as a drastic shift in strap policy and a pivotal lug makeover. Beware, the following article contains copious amounts of numbered references.
Breguet introduces a new version of the Classique Tourbillon. The new ref. 7357 is a direct descendant of the first tourbillon wristwatch they released back in 1988, whose movement was the work of none other than Daniel Roth. It is still a diminutive thing of beauty, sitting at 35 mm and a hair under the 10-mm-thick mark, as it is the sweet spot for most die-hard fans of classic watchmaking The execution is either Breguet Gold, i.e. a variant of the 4N rose gold, or platinum. In both versions, the tourbillon bridge screwed atop the solid gold dial matches the case tone.
Next up is the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral, first introduced this year as part of the brand's 250th anniversary. Its specific feature is the fact that its tourbillon is deprived of an upper bridge, making it a flying one...and surprisingly enough that was the first time Breguet did a flying tourbillon. The tourbillon's underbridge is made of sapphire, making it look like it's floating in mid-air, as once did the ancestor of ref. 7255, the Tourbillon Messidor. Breguet is offering a platinum execution of the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral, with a black enamel dial. Nicknamed aventurine enamel, it contains specks of matter reminiscent of aventurine glass, and of shimmering stars.
Then Breguet tackled what may be their most 19th century chronometry, classic means of accuracy movement. Lodged exclusively inside the Tradition Tourbillon, caliber 569 features a large balance wheel carried by a large one-minute tourbillon, coupled with a wide fusée and a barrel around which a chain is coiled. Asymmetry, three-dimensionality and three cantilevered, openworked bridges reign supreme on the ref. 7047PT. The case sits at 41 mm, is made of platinum, and contains a two-tone movement that enhances the level of depth allowed by its dial-side construction. One of those colors is called Bleu de France, a full, rich hue reserved for limited series such as the 7047's 25 pieces. It's applied on all bridges and the grand feu enamel off-centered dial.
Equation of time is one of those complications that bear the hallmark of classic, 19th century watchmaking. It allows to reconcile our mean, standardized time with the one given by the sun, which is marred with variations. When the equation is Marchante, it features a hand that displays sun time on a constant basis. The new Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante features it (and a qp in case you're interested) in a platinum case with a luminescent dial depicting the sky map of your choosing.
Beyond these individual alterations, Breguet has undertaken sweeping modifications of design. The brand has done away with the systematic use of their signature lugs, straight bars with a rounded end reminiscent of a bishop's staff. Instead, the Classique pieces now use classic lugs that come out of the case as a slight change of curve. To these new extensions, Breguet now attaches suede leather straps. On most references, alligator leather is out, calf is in, alongside with the occasional rubber, endowing the watches with a more modern finish. The latter is part of an overall objective of enhancing textures on their timepieces.
Breguet movements have always been finely decorated, even before the era of see-through casebacks. After resorting to the more classic finishings, the brand decided to introduce engravings, of the most elaborate kind, on their uppermost range models, such as ref. 5887. The new Classique range models call upon a completely different approach. The mainplate of their movements reproduce the pattern seen on their dial, in this instance one of the brand's signatures: guilloché. Breguet's crossing to the other side is complete. The Classique Tourbillon and Classique Tourbillon Sidéral now have that total pattern look that feels oh so classic, and very qualitative.
FAQ
Q: What is a tourbillon watch?
A: A tourbillon watch features a rotating cage that continuously spins the balance wheel and escapement to counteract the effects of gravity on accuracy. The mechanism was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, who patented it in 1801, and remains one of watchmaking's most complex and prestigious complications.
Q: What is a flying tourbillon?
A: A flying tourbillon is a tourbillon with no upper bridge, making the rotating cage appear to float above the dial. The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral uses a sapphire underbridge to reinforce this effect, giving the mechanism a near-invisible support.
Q: What is the Breguet Classique Tourbillon?
A: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon is a 35 mm dress watch built around the complication patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. The current ref. 7357 is available in rose gold or platinum, with a solid gold dial and a tourbillon bridge matching the case tone.
Q: What is an equation of time watch?
A: An equation of time watch displays both standard clock time and true solar time, which differ throughout the year due to Earth's elliptical orbit. When "marchante," a dedicated hand tracks solar time continuously. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante combines this with a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar.
