There are masterpieces of watchmaking know-how that few ever get to see.
This month, Vacheron Constantin has announced that it will offer the public the unprecedented opportunity to view a selection of 20 spectacular and unique timepieces produced by its bespoke workshop, the Atelier Cabinotiers. The timepieces will be exhibited for the first time in a traveling show in select U.S. locations.
“It is with great pleasure that we are able to present 20 exceptional Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers timepieces in the United States,” said Leslie Kobrin, Vacheron Constantin’s president of Americas.
The exhibition will showcase the workmanship of the Cabinotiers watchmakers, considered to be some of the world’s most skilled artisans who push the boundaries of watchmaking excellence.
The term “cabinotiers” dates back to the 18th century and referred to Geneva’s most experienced watchmakers, some whom were employed by Vacheron Constantin itself founded in Geneva in 1755.
“The cabinotiers were alchemists of time who crafted astonishing, client-commissioned watches, and were masters of their art,” Vacheron Constantin explains.
At Vacheron Constantin, Atelier Cabinotiers refers to the workshop the brand established in 2006 to cater to an exclusive clientele of connoisseurs who commission or wish to acquire a one-of-a-kind or bespoke timepiece. The timepieces produced by that workshop are rarely ever seen by the public, for the simple reason that they are made-to-order for a special client. Some are shown to the press or to select clients.
“The ‘cabinotiers’ tradition lives on at Vacheron Constantin today through our rare and precious Les Cabinotiers collections which make up both bespoke pieces tailored to our client’s desires, and one-of-a-kind masterpieces dreamed up by our Les Cabinotiers department,” the Maison says.
A Tradition of Métiers d’Art Timepieces
Among the pieces in the show are awe-inspiring artistic crafts timepieces that display the Maison’s know-how in ancient techniques of enameling, engraving and wood marquetry.
Last month, at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Vacheron Constantin had presented a selection of Cabinotiers-produced timepieces that paid tribute to the “Animal Kingdom.” Titled “Mécaniques Sauvages,” the collection included the Imperial Tiger, a rose-gold timepiece that took some 60 hours of crafting, and showcased the association of two ancestral decorative techniques: bas-relief engraving – applied to sculpt in gold a three-dimensional tiger perched on a rocky mound - with wood marquetry - to create the green background of the landscape and foliage.
The Imperial Tiger timepiece is now in the travelling show and will be presented with a magnifying glass to allow the viewer to appreciate the finesse of its craftsmanship.
“Whether singly or combined, engraving and wood marquetry give life to these timepieces through a play on contrasts, colors and volumes that reproduce the stance and character of wild animals, the atmosphere pervading their surroundings, as well as the luxuriance of nature,” the Maison said.
The engraving work creates a relief effect that brings the beast alive, with alternating matte, polished, satin-brushed and chased finishes that produce contrasts. Black oxidation reveals the stripes of the tiger.
In turn, the marquetry (or inlay) technique creates motifs with a multitude of small, individually hand-cut wood veneers in various shades and shapes. Each is cut, carefully nested so as to direct the grain of the wood and align its fibers. On the dial of the Imperial Tiger, over 200 wood pieces were assembled to form the rocky backdrop, and some 130 pieces to create the foliage.
Beside the Imperial Tiger, none of the timepieces in the travelling exhibition has been shown before. The Minute Repeater Tourbillon Twilight, featured in the show, demonstrates the art of “grand feu” and “grisaille” enameling on the dial of the one-of-kind timepiece.
“The richness of the chromatic range accentuates the realism of the scene that takes shape under the expert hand of the master artisan, who crafts each of these unique pieces with delicacy and sensitivity,” the Maison says.
A tradition of innovation
For an example of the technical mastery of Vacheron Constantin, the Maître Cabinotier Retrograde Armillary Tourbillon wristwatch features double retrograde indications and an armillary tourbillon inspired by a specially-commissioned pocket watch produced by the Atelier Cabinotiers in 2015.
Known as the reference 57260, that pocket watch was the world’s most complicated timepiece with a whopping 57 complications packed in a timepiece that took three master watchmakers eight years to produce. While the pocket watch will not be displayed in the show, the Armillary Tourbillon is a close runner-up when it comes to demonstrating Vacheron Constantin’s sophistication in customized timepieces.
Atelier Cabinotiers had in recent years proved its dedication to technical innovation with spectacular timepieces like the Les Cabinotiers Celestial Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, that combined modern know-how with traditional aesthetics.
The double-sided wristwatch incorporated 23 complications, mostly astronomical in nature, including three different time indications – civil, solar and sidereal – with a sunrise and sunset indicator, and a rarely seen “mareoscope” function with a tide level indicator and a 3D depiction of the earth-moon-sun alignment, to indicate the gravitational attraction and centrifugal forces of heavenly bodies that impact the tides. The moon phase display, assures the Maison, would need a one-day correction once every 122 years.
Each in their own unique way, the timepieces in the show are a marvel of excellence in traditional craftsmanship and mechanical precision.
A first-ever U.S. tour
“The presentation of this collection of Les Cabinotiers pieces in four major cities of the U.S is a first for our Maison,” Kobrin says.
The U.S. tour of the Cabinotiers timepieces began on February 6 at Vacheron Constatin’s Beverly Hills boutique. Further stops are planned in the brand’s boutiques at the South Coast Plaza [February 9-12], followed by the Miami Design District, and finally in New York [February 20-23] at Vacheron Constantin’s flagship Madison Avenue store.
“Watch collectors as well as art and jewelry lovers will be delighted by the opportunity to see these rare complicated and artistic timepieces in person,” the Maison says.
