As the initiator and organizer of the Middle East’s flagship event, retailer Seddiqi & Sons timed this now-essential biennial to coincide with its 75th anniversary, whose gala dinner the night before had brought together an impressive gathering of watch industry leaders. From the very first hour of the exhibition, the tone was set with a tidal wave of enthusiastic visitors, delighted by the new central layout and the diversity of the 92 exhibitors, ranging from independent artisans to global leaders. Nearly 50,000 attendees (more than double the previous 2023 edition) poured into every stand, whether it was a simple workbench from a watchmaker launching their brand, like Raoul Tena, or the massive elevated structure of Audemars Piguet showcasing its 150th anniversary exhibition, or Van Cleef & Arpels’ similar setup. Reflecting the exceptional nature of this event, Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour spoke at length to journalists alongside Hamied Seddiqi, head of the group (see below).
Exhibitors, media, and visitors all praised the organizers for maintaining a relaxed atmosphere despite the impressive expansion of the fair, a testament to the passion and professionalism of the Seddiqi family. Leading the organization, Hind Seddiqi emphasized in her opening speech that the watch community is evolving, seeking more meaning and transparency; Dubai Watch Week (DWW) serves as a cultural platform for exchange and sharing, reflecting the dynamism of the industry players transforming the sector.
Flagship launches and fanfare
Calling it enthusiasm would be an understatement: out of the 92 exhibitors, 40 created limited editions or unique pieces for the occasion in collaboration with Seddiqi & Sons—a record!
From their two-level stands with integrated terraces, ideal for hospitality and feeding the vibrant Dubai by night scene, Breitling, Chopard, and TAG Heuer staged major launches for their brands. Not only in terms of products but also in terms of executive presentations during the various panels that structured the fair’s agenda.
Georges Kern unveiled his House of Brands concept, bringing together Gallet and Universal Genève (scheduled for product launches in 2026) under the Breitling umbrella. During his presentation, peppered with anecdotes and reflections on the economic landscape, he revealed much of the strategy for his three brands, notably stating that “clients buy the brand first, then the design and the movement. Quality and service remain non-negotiable conditions.”
TAG Heuer CEO Antoine Pin, in a panel discussion, highlighted the technological breakthrough of the brand’s carbon escapements and the increasingly global reach of the DWW. The fair was the perfect setting to launch the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 in titanium, a haute horlogerie piece inspired by a hypercar and crafted using cutting-edge technology.
For Roger Dubuis, for whom the DWW was a first, the event was part of the official program celebrating the brand’s 30th anniversary. The brand invited around a hundred clients from around the world to attend and discover its commemorative limited edition Hommage La Placide. CEO David Chaumet praised the energy on site, noting “the ease of contact, the discussions with a highly qualified and passionate watchmaking audience.”
Among the independents, Chopard unveiled its most complex piece ever produced by its Fleurier manufacture, which will celebrate its 30th anniversary in 2026. Certified by COSC and the Poinçon de Genève, the L.U.C Grand Strike with tourbillon and grande sonnerie stands out for its exclusive sapphire gongs and 10 patents. Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele explained the 11,000 hours of R&D behind it and how the idea of sapphire gongs came about during a brainstorming session over a good meal, when the clinking of two glasses produced “a sound of exceptional clarity.”
H. Moser & Cie, the Schaffhausen brand, adapted to Dubai time by welcoming clients and media on the temporary terrace of Home Bakery, in front of the main building of the gourmet establishment. It was here that CEO Edouard Meylan presented the Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite, featuring a new automatic movement and a meteorite dial, which required dozens of trials to achieve the desired hue. He expressed his amazement that the DWW had evolved from a local to a regional and now global event in ten years, creating “an incredible and positive energy, very much focused on end clients. The setting—the Burj Khalifa, the surrounding bars and restaurants, the fountains, and the sunny weather—adds an ‘entertainment’ aspect that you don’t find in indoor fairs.”
Collaborations
In the realm of collaborations, Kross Studio created a highly successful collector’s set themed around Harry Potter, featuring a central wizard tourbillon and film music orchestrated by Reuge, much sought after by collectors attending the fair. Perrelet, for its part, not only reimagined its famous turbine in a limited edition reflecting the colors of local artist Diaa Allam, but also launched two entry-level models targeting the local clientele, with a malachite dial for one and a desert sand-patterned blue dial for the other. It was also a first for Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, who created a joint limited edition based on the Freak.
In a completely different style, Konstantin Chaykin welcomed visitors to his stand with a striking painting incorporating elements of his brand-new White Rabbit, a perpetual calendar with 16 complications, functioning as both a wristwatch and a pocket watch. Both watchmaker and painter, he placed himself within his painting A Mad Horological Party, inviting enthusiasts to comment on his various mechanical and artistic creations.
Much more modest, and perhaps the newest exhibitor, Raul Tena officially launched his brand, presenting his first highly artistic model: the striking and sculptural Pearl Diver.
The favorite meeting for CEOs?
Demonstrating Rolex’s unwavering support for the DWW and the Seddiqi family, CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour took part in a rare Q&A session before a packed auditorium. For him, “the DWW is essential to generate emotion and stay connected; we must find ways for brands to collaborate and speak with one voice, whether at DWW or Watches & Wonders, but also to support training. We must show maturity.” He also emphasized the role of DWW in highlighting newcomers: “we need young brands to push us forward; a living industry needs new ideas.”
Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta was full of enthusiasm: “The energy here is incredible, contagious, and positive, and the organization is fantastic! Moreover, the spirit of discovery is everywhere; we meet many interested visitors across all age groups. I find this cultural and playful aspect essential—the whole ‘edutraining’ dimension is indispensable to keeping watchmaking alive. It is thanks to the efforts of all of us—journalists, the Seddiqi family, and the brands—that we can collectively keep watchmaking thriving.”
For Georges Kern (Breitling, Gallet, Universal Genève), who came to unveil the scope of his House of Brands, “emotion is paramount, as is direct contact with end clients. Watchmaking has the unique advantage of being able to maintain this connection, unlike the automotive sector, which has lost much of its emotional appeal and no longer has shows to convey it.”
At the helm of Louis Vuitton Horology, Jean Arnault even expressed his wish for the DWW to be held annually and to host more exhibitors: “The event has almost doubled in size, yet it’s remarkable that it has maintained such a personal character despite its expansion. We have very dynamic interactions with watchmakers; it could develop even further, which would be fantastic! I think they manage to sustain direct contact with collectors, which is quite fascinating, and hosting more brands wouldn’t change the essence of the organization.”
At the conclusion of the panel dedicated to independents and the LV Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, he added: “Exposing pieces to collectors is very important, and doing so in a relaxed manner allows them to try the watches on their wrists and ask all their questions.”
In the same group, Hublot CEO Julien Tornare added: “I think this fair is going to take on a special place for all of us; it has become a global event. We are very, very pleased with the business and media contacts. It’s the right season, the right place, the right formula, and we will rely even more on it for a major launch at the next edition.”
A longtime attendee of the event, Audrey Raffy (from the Bovet owning family) had nothing but praise for the fair: “It’s magnificent! Whether it’s the structure, the aesthetics, or the quality of the visitors, everything is executed extremely well. I did not expect it to be so successful—it’s incredible! And with each edition, they raise the bar! The entire watchmaking community is here; you feel at home. You don’t feel the stress you find at other fairs despite the long days; you get to talk with friends—it’s really enjoyable.”
Mohammed Seddiqi also reminded everyone: “In the beginning, Audemars & Piguet or Patek & Philippe were also small independents, like some of the brands we host here today. We must support the watchmaking of the future by nurturing today’s small brands.”
