The Octo Finissimo as we know it today seemed, for about two years, to have reached its cruising speed. The 40 mm piece, launched in 2014, was a true horological missile that shattered most of the world records for thinness. It is also a model of Italian elegance, which propelled the art of ultra-thin watchmaking, once somewhat dusty, into the realm of the latest trend: cool, sexy, alluring, and at the same time remarkably refined and elegant. As Guillaume Tetu recently pointed out in our columns: the 21st century has not yet seen many icons, but the Octo Finissimo is unquestionably one of them.
The 10 Records of the Octo Finissimo
2014
Octo Finissimo Manual Tourbillon – Record for the world’s thinnest hand-wound tourbillon watch.
2016
Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater – Record for the world’s thinnest minute repeater watch.
2017
Octo Finissimo Automatic (3-Hand) – Record for the world’s thinnest automatic three-hand watch.
2018
Octo Finissimo Automatic Tourbillon – Record for the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon watch.
2019
Octo Finissimo Automatic Chronograph GMT – Record for the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph GMT.
2020
Octo Finissimo Automatic Skeleton Tourbillon Chronograph – Record for the world’s thinnest automatic skeleton tourbillon chronograph.
2021
Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – Record for the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch, with a total thickness of 2.75 mm.
2022
Octo Finissimo Ultra – Record for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, with a thickness of just 1.80 mm.
2024
Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC – Record for the world’s thinnest COSC-certified mechanical watch (1.70 mm).
2025
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon – Record for the world’s thinnest skeleton tourbillon (1.85 mm).
And yet, the most difficult part was still to come. What can you possibly do next when you’ve already reached the top? Reinventing something is far more complex than creating it from scratch. At the creation stage, the page is blank and expectations are low. With reinvention, however, everything changes: the codes are already in place, collectors are watching closely, both purists and innovators, often clashing on social media, and the spotlight is entirely on the manufacture.
Bvlgari has opted to redefine the future of the Octo Finissimo by introducing a 37 mm version. This serves a dual purpose: meeting collectors’ growing preference for smaller case sizes while appealing to both women and men looking for a more discreet wrist presence. While the first-generation Octo Finissimo was sized at 40 mm, it tended to feel larger on the wrist, giving the impression of a more substantial piece. The move to 37 mm is therefore especially well received.
What’s new for the Octo Finissimo 37 mm?
The new Octo Finissimo was unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026. This marks only Bvlgari’s second participation in the major Geneva watch fair, “the most fitting place to present the future of watchmaking according to our maison,” emphasized Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of LVMH Watches and CEO of Bvlgari.
First and foremost, there is an entirely new case. Rather than being a simple proportional downsizing of the original 40 mm version, it has been thoughtfully reworked. In particular, the junction between the case and the bracelet has been redesigned, while the folding clasp has been refined to enhance ergonomics.
Next comes a new movement. The challenge was not only to reduce its diameter, but above all to maintain its slim profile. Its thickness remains limited to 2.35 mm, with a calibre measuring just 31 mm across. Although it is 0.12 mm thicker than the movement found in the 40 mm Octo Finissimo, its overall volume has nonetheless been reduced by 20%.
This achievement was made possible by the progress accomplished over the past three years on the Piccolissimo calibre.
Typically, reducing the size of a movement has a negative impact on power reserve, as it implies a smaller barrel. That is not the case with the new BVF 100 calibre. Thanks to an optimized micro-rotor and the development of a redesigned barrel, the power reserve of the 40 mm version has not only been preserved, but actually extended—from 60 to 72 hours. This new calibre is the outcome of three years of research and development.
What are the new versions?
A 37 mm Octo Finissimo opens up new horizons for the manufacture. It is highly unlikely that it will seek to replicate, within this new case, the record-breaking feats of the previous generation. In many cases, this is simply not technically feasible due to the size of the movements behind those records. But more importantly, the new 37 mm Octo Finissimo does not appear to have been designed to set new records. According to the manufacture, it is a piece that is “more lifestyle-oriented.” One that will bring the Octo Finissimo to those who found it too large, or who were not chasing records. A watch for everyday wear.
Four versions are already available. The first comes in titanium, offered with either a sandblasted or polished-satin finish. The third is crafted in 18-carat yellow gold. The fourth and final version is the only one featuring a complication, a minute repeater. It is presented in sandblasted titanium, with a partially openworked dial.
