Richard Mille Shows a New Side, but the Same Elegance
Surprisingly, Richard Mille is a discreet brand. Its appearances are rare, product presentations are nonexistent, and it has not participated in trade shows since withdrawing from SIHH (now renamed Watches & Wonders Geneva) in 2020. On the other hand, Richard Mille watches are widely regarded as large, thick, complex, and packed with details. Just think of the model that formed the core of its success, the RM 11-03, which made no apologies for its 16.2 mm thickness. Things have changed, however. Richard Mille thinks big when it comes to events, but much smaller when it comes to its latest watches.
Richard Mille in their Kingdom
Chantilly Arts & Élégance Richard Mille is something of a home game for Richard Mille. It is Europe's largest and most prestigious event dedicated to the peculiar, all-consuming, and expensive passion that is classic car collecting. A title sponsor since the event's inception in 2014, the brand is involved on several levels, as the event is organized by Peter Auto, an agency specializing in automotive events whose founder is a close associate of Mr. Richard Mille. He himself is an avid collector of vintage racing cars. Thanks to these multiple connections, the brand has by far the largest hospitality area in Chantilly, along with the most exclusive hospitality experience of its kind.
Under an enormous tent beside the gardens of the Château de Chantilly, with a terrace overlooking the central fountain around which contenders in the various competitions parade, Richard Mille welcomes hundreds of guests in an unparalleled blend of grandeur and informality. Further into the forest, a bucolic pavilion provides a more intimate and richly decorated setting. Yet there are no display cases and no product demonstrations. Instead of promoting its products, the brand relies on pure soft power. Lobster and dusty shoes: this particular combination captures all the charm of this chic outdoor gathering. It is the equivalent of drinking champagne in the back of a Rolls-Royce at a polo match, but powered by leaded Super fuel.
Thinner and farther from traditional categories
Richard Mille has built its reputation on complex watches. Technically and visually, the brand speaks the language of machinery, particularly automotive engineering, and for a long time did so with the help of imposing cases. Driven by the constraints of the movement, these made many RM references substantial pieces. But the brand has taken a turn that continues to shape its creations, following a long curve at full throttle in fifth gear. New Richard Mille watches are narrower, thinner, and shorter than their predecessors in every category. All it takes to appreciate the difference is to try on some of its latest creations.
The RM 55-01 is a far cry from the RM 11-03 and its ilk. There is no need to check its dimensions: just look at it on the wrist of a boy who is not yet 13. It fits him beautifully. The same effect can be seen on his father, whose wrist is not much thicker. Add to this the brand's strong push toward women's watches, which in fact appeals to a mixed, less gender-defined audience, far removed from traditional categories. With these two shifts, the average size of Richard Mille watches has moved to a different scale. That does not prevent the brand from remaining true to more demonstrative formats, such as the latest RM 64-01 Colnago, dedicated to another prestigious vehicle: the racing bicycle.
At Richard Mille, the change in scale does not signify a change in philosophies. Mechanics remain at the heart of the brand's identity, although it is now expressed from more contained shells. Excess is not gone: it has merely learned to be more discreet.
FAQ
What is Chantilly Arts & Élégance Richard Mille?
It’s Europe’s largest and most prestigious event dedicated to classic car collecting, with Richard Mille as title sponsor since 2014, organized by Peter Auto in the gardens of the Château de Chantilly.
Why are Richard Mille watches becoming smaller?
Richard Mille now makes narrower, thinner, and shorter cases across every category, worn equally well by a young boy and his father, reflecting a push toward a less gender-defined, more universal audience.
What is the Richard Mille RM 11-03?
The RM 11-03 is an iconic model at the heart of the brand’s success, known for its substantial 16.2 mm thick case.
What is the Richard Mille RM 64-01 Colnago?
The RM 64-01 Colnago is Richard Mille’s latest creation dedicated to the racing bicycle, retaining a more demonstrative format true to the brand’s historic codes.
