As often happens, Seiko turns out to be a leader in a given field of watchmaking without anyone being aware of it. Such is the case for high-precision quartz movements, for mechanically recharged quartz movements, as well as for diver’s watches. The latter has become a speciality of the brand that is currently celebrating the 50th anniversary of the launch of its first model in 1965. Since then, at prices ranging from around 300 to 7000 €, Seiko has been more or less covering all the bases in this area.
The brand’s models have names that aren’t actually names, instead operating with references, although nothing is harder to recall (if one even wishes to do so) than SBDC031J. That’s exactly why the community of Seiko fans, and particularly divers, have given them nicknames like Darth Vader, Tuna or Sumo, all of which are affectionate references to the oversized, aggressive personae of these watches. One particular large black diver’s watch is thus dubbed Tuna Vader because it’s the same size as a can of tuna fish and black-clad like Darth Vader.
For more than 20 years now, these models have been regarded as must-haves and its range-entry models ensure Seiko can equip divers on any budget, and with automatic movements to boot! While other brands are apparently better renowned, Seiko is a benchmark among the diving community. By way of example, reference SKX009K1 is water-resistant to 200 meters and priced at 299€. Complete with day-date indications, a two-tone unidirectional bezel and oversized luminescent hour-markers, even the least expensive of these diver’s models does not skimp in terms of assets. Watchmaking devotees will rejoice that this range-entry timepiece is also automatic, while Kinetic versions (based on recharging a storage battery via a mechanical rotor) are more expensive.
Water-resistance levels of the more high-end models extend to 600 and even 1000 meters as we move into the Prospex range. The Marinemaster models are professional versions equipped with higher-quality mechanisms including the brand’s flagship Calibre 8L55 beating at 5 Hz. But the upscale features are most clearly apparent on the cases, which are increasingly large – at around 46 to 48 mm – as they offer enhanced water resistance. They nonetheless remain light through the use of titanium or DLC-coated titanium. The construction is particularly complex, since some of the cases boast a double case, with the first classic one incorporated within a second, rounded ceramic outer shell. A security ring blocks the rotation of the bezel and must be released to adjust dive times. The hour-markers are as always large luminescent dots, a style that has become a signature of Seiko diver’s watches, since functionality remains a core concern.
At the very peak of the range are the ultra-prestigious Grand Seiko diver’s models. The mechanisms are more sophisticated and include Spring Drive calibres, a set of extremely accurate and exclusive mechanical movements featuring electromagnetic regulation. The finishes are more high-end and even the case polishing deserves a closer look to appreciate the meticulous care lavished upon it. All in all, these timepieces represent an impressive feat, since the technical aspects generally associated with the diving world in no way alter Seiko’s general approach. The brand remains dedicated to serving a wide range of budgets with several technologies and finishing levels, and the diver’s models – whether quartz, self-winding or Spring Drive versions – are no exception to this rule.
