Watches and Wonders: Taking Stock

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Record-breaking numbers, the near-complete presence of the watchmaking world, and visitors arriving from across the globe: once again, Watches and Wonders Geneva turns what once seemed exceptional into the norm. While 2026 promises to be a challenging year, the determination to keep moving forward is unmistakable.

It is sometimes worth remembering the event’s origins. In its early days, Watches and Wonders brought together around fifteen brands, most of them belonging to the Richemont group. Today, that number has quadrupled at Palexpo, whose capacity seems to expand year after year. This doesn’t even account for the large number of independent brands gathered in nearby hotels, pushing the total number of exhibitors to nearly 250.

Key figures
Despite a difficult context, marked by a struggling global economy, shifting U.S. tariff policies, ongoing conflicts in Iran and Ukraine, energy concerns, the rise of inexperienced influencers over traditional media, and the growing presence of AI and deepfakes, the event managed to hold its ground. Some visitors from the Middle East were even unable to attend.

Even so, Watches and Wonders lived up to expectations, bringing together 65 brands, 60,000 unique visitors, including 1,750 members of the press and 6,000 retailers during seven days. The general public accounted for 25,000 attendees over the three public days, many drawn by the various activities organized throughout Geneva.

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar « Lumen » © A. Lange & Söhne

A shared moment

The message is straightforward: in a fragmented world, people seek both connection and a shared sense of imagination. Watches and Wonders delivers precisely that. A single place, a single week, a collective universe—an experience outside of time that paradoxically becomes a focal point and a reference in itself.

Admittedly, the event does not mirror everyday reality: rare and valuable timepieces, often out of reach for most people, showcased in an exceptional setting with near-flawless organization. Yet this is exactly where its strength lies. By stepping away from daily life, it offers a vision of harmonious coexistence, built around shared values such as refinement, excellence, and creativity. Some may see this as disconnected from the realities of 2026, but it may also be exactly what is needed to help shape what comes next.

Big Bang One Click Joyful Steel Purple © Hublot

Nearly 250 exhibitors across Geneva

Although the Swatch Group remains the most notable absentee, alongside brands such as Richard Mille, Breitling, and Bell & Ross, almost the entire watchmaking industry was represented during this “watch week.” Three satellite events complemented the main exhibition at Palexpo: Time to Watches, just a short distance away, featuring 87 brands and 10,450 visitors; Chronopolis, with 20 brands; and the Beau-Rivage, a landmark hotel in Geneva that has gradually established itself as a full-fledged exhibition venue, hosting 48 exhibitors. Including other brands spread throughout the city, the total reached approximately 250 participants over the week.

Ensuring accessibility and smooth circulation between these different hubs was a key challenge. This was successfully addressed through efficient shuttle services across the city, helped by excellent weather. While there was no formal coordination between the main Watches and Wonders event and its satellite shows, a pragmatic balance emerged, allowing each to maintain its distinct identity while coexisting effectively.

J12 28 mm © CHANEL

Reassuring the market

From a content perspective, it remains difficult to unify all the presentations at Palexpo into a single, cohesive narrative. One dominant theme does stand out, however: caution. Brands focused on their most established and recognizable collections: Nautilus and Métiers d’Art at Patek Philippe, Streamliner at H. Moser & Co., Alpine Eagle and L.U.C at Chopard, Big Bang at Hublot, Tank at Cartier, Lange 1 at A. Lange & Söhne, Royal Oak at Audemars Piguet, J12 at Chanel, and Luminor at Panerai. The goal was clear: reassure the market and keep costs under control. There were no particularly bold or extravagant launches, aside from a possible exception with Ulysse Nardin’s SuperFreak. Each brand stayed within its comfort zone. In turbulent times, the watch industry trims its sails, any other approach would have been unrealistic.

What more could be expected? Most of the factors that will shape the future of the event lie beyond its control. One can only hope for greater geopolitical stability, a return to open international trade, and lasting peace. While Watches and Wonders cannot influence these broader dynamics, it continues to stand as it always has: a symbol of elegance and creativity in a world that may need both more than ever.