USING NEW MATERIALS IN HOROLOGY
In its quest for mechanical perfection, De Bethune constantly explores new horizons and frequently makes use in its creations of materials that are new to the watch industry.
These materials are selected according to extremely strict criteria bearing no relation to ephemeral trends. Each is used for its specific properties, and always with a view to improving the precision and reliability of the fundamental watch components devised over the centuries. Titanium, for example, is an extremely light, sturdy and stainless material. De Bethune uses it to make parts such as balance-wheel centres, bridges and screws. Its exceptional properties are also put to good use in creating cases, floating lugs, dials and hands. De Bethune oscillating weights boast a unique combination of titanium and platinum.
De Bethune has also developed and patented the world's first balance-wheel to incorporate silicon. This highly robust and flawless material considerably improves movements' efficiency and appearance. Its physical properties, its extreme lightness, its elasticity and its suitability for various treatments have also enabled the Manufacture to create parts requiring extreme precision, such as escape-wheels, balance-springs, hands, bridges and collets. They are machined in a particle accelerator by a deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) operation performed within a complete vacuum and at a temperature of around -273°C.
REINVENTED BALANCE-SPRING
Developed by a highly qualified multi-disciplinary research group, the patented De Bethune balancespring represents a breakthrough evolution of the Breguet overcoil balance-spring.
Thanks to a unique shape and material, its flat terminal curve enables free concentric development of the spring, as well as a noticeably thinner construction. It also avoids any distortion of the coils in case of impacts thanks to the specific study of its elasticity at its point of attachment. Finally, the smooth assembly of the balance-spring avoids any potential damage to its resilience during fitting, thereby guaranteeing optimal rate performance.
THE PERFECT BALANCE
De Bethune is one of the rare watch manufacturers to use its very own patented balance-wheels. They stem from ongoing research and are designed to be as light as possible while maintaining the highest possible level of inertia.
The titanium/platinum balance achieves an ideal mass/ inertia ratio. Its extreme lightness makes titanium ideal for the central part of the balance, while the optimally aerodynamic external weights are made from platinum. The latter metal, which has one of the highest densities, serves to increase the inertia of the regulating organ. This makes it possible to achieve a 20% lower weight, while maintaining high inertia. The resulting reduction in friction also entails substantial energy savings. Two gold adjustment weights facilitate the dynamic rating.
Shifting up a gear in its quest for the perfect equilibrium between lightness and inertia, De Bethune unveiled in 2010 its annular balance made from silicon and a gold/palladium alloy. The Manufacture brilliantly exploits the exceptional characteristics of these materials, since palladium features the lowest density of all metals, while nonetheless providing a sufficient counterweight for silicon.
ULTIMATE SHOCK RESISTANCE
As a loyal companion for contemporary individuals, the wristwatch is subjected to an increasingly wide range of stresses and strains. Shock resistance is an essential prerequisite to which De Bethune has responded by two major innovations, the triple pare-chute anti-shock system; and the oscillating weight shock-absorber system.
THE TRIPLE PARE-CHUTE
The only system of its kind used in the watch industry, the triple pare-chute protects the heart of the movement thanks to a titanium bridge secured by a spring-based system. Three jewels connect the various elements, thereby not only absorbing shocks but also ensuring precise repositioning of the bridge after a displacement.
OSCILLATING WEIGHT SHOCK-ABSORBERThe oscillating weight guard device is also a world premiere. A steel shock-absorbing device with 4 small spring feet and 12 jewels maintains the smooth motion of the titanium/ platinum oscillating weight. In case of substantial or repeated impacts, the spring feet of the shock-absorber may be deformed along several axes, therefore avoiding any damage to the oscillating weight itself. The jewels contribute to reducing friction.
THE PEAK OF TIMING PRECISION
THE DE BETHUNE ESCAPEMENT
The Swiss 20-toothed lever escapement has been entirely updated by the De Bethune R&D department. In order to improve efficiency, the angles of the escapement locking and impulse planes are substantially different from the usual norms.
Thanks to an exclusive De Bethune process, the escapewheel is thinned down as far as possible to achieve minimum inertia, thus ensuring optimal running and reducing wear. The alternate bevels on each tooth, one on top and the next below, help ensure an even spread of the lubricant and cut the wear on the lever pallets in half by doubling the contact surface.
The lever is poised so as to cancel out the effects of gravity and ensure improved rating in the various watch positions. This involves an exclusive process in which the pallets are clamped in place rather than cemented.
TOURBILLON
The laws of physics are absolutely clear: in order to compensate for the violence of wrist movements, the tourbillon carriage must be as light as possible and endowed with a maximum frequency and rotation speed, along with minimal weight and inertia.
After two and a half years of research, De Bethune developed the first tourbillon ever truly designed to be worn on the wrist. Thanks to the use of new technologies, this silicon/titanium tourbillon beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, within a carriage that rotates once every 30 seconds. The latter is the lightest ever introduced on the market and comprises 50 parts weighing 0.18 grams in all, meaning four times less than a conventional carriage.
CHRONOMETRIC SETTING SYSTEM
The chronometric setting system, a world-first innovation from De Bethune, enables each user to easily adjust the rate of his watch by simply pressing one of the two pushpieces on the back of the watch. To ensure optimal use, the limits of such adjustment are indicated in red through an aperture.
FUNDAMENTAL RESEARCH: CONSTRAINT-FREE HIGH FREQUENCY
After two years of study conducted by the engineers and physicists of the De Bethune laboratory, under the guidance of Denis Flageollet, a new fundamental principle of mechanical horology has been developed. Dubbed “mechanical resonics”, this discovery is based on the successful synchronisation of a sound frequency oscillator and a magnetic escapement rotor within a mechanical watch. It thereby paves the way for a whole new discipline. Free of any balance and spring assembly or traditional escapement, and composed of a minimum number of parts, the mechanism thus invented by De Bethune shows every promise of achieving the highest levels of precision while eliminating the traditional constraints represented by wear, shock resistance and lubrication.
MASTERING ENERGY
THE SELF-REGULATING TWIN BARREL
All De Bethune calibres are equipped with a self-regulating twin barrel ensuring maximum constant power reserve. Moreover, De Bethune has developed an exclusive frictionreduction technology by means of six jewelled blades placed on either side of the spring in order to ensure optimal transmission of maximum energy to the balance-wheel.WINDING-SPEED REGULATING SYSTEM
This unique system developed by De Bethune enables the wearers to adjust their watch according to the quantity and speed of their movements. A crown-operated lever offers a choice between three automatic winding speeds: sports (H), medium (M) or low (L). Whatever their usual pace, users can thus adjust the quantity of energy transmitted to the barrel and thereby optimise the tension of the spring as well as the movement's performances.
