It is Baume & Mercier’s cornerstone collection. Since its comeback in 2021, the Riviera has become omnipresent. “Comeback” is the right word, since the original collection was first introduced in 1973. That makes it a contemporary of the Nautilus, Ingenieur, Laureato and Royal Oak. Like those icons, it emerged from the wave initiated by the legendary Gérald Genta. At the time, sporty elegance was redefining watch design, a concept Genta virtually invented. The Riviera embraces all the hallmarks of that aesthetic, which, admittedly, are shared by all the previously mentioned models: steel construction, a faceted bezel, and a minimalist three-hand dial generally enhanced with a textured motif.
As for movements, the era belonged to quartz. The technology had entered watchmaking four years earlier, in 1969, and rapidly swept aside almost every mechanical alternative. Quartz, the new superstar of the industry, therefore naturally became the beating heart of the youthful and dynamic Riviera launched in 1973.
One watch, five generations
The Riviera would appear and disappear according to Baume & Mercier’s priorities over the years. The first generation was revisited in 1980 through a second wave that introduced new two-tone interpretations. A third generation followed shortly after, in 1985, featuring different finishes. Then came a major break of nearly twenty years. The fourth generation arrived in 2004, after a 19-year absence during which mechanical watchmaking had returned triumphantly to the forefront. Almost the same interval (17 years) separates the fourth and fifth generations.
With this fifth chapter launched in 2021, Baume & Mercier crossed several symbolic milestones. The most significant was undoubtedly the arrival of the in-house Baumatic caliber, arguably one of the finest automatic movements in contemporary watchmaking thanks to its resistance to magnetic fields, accuracy, power reserve and extended maintenance intervals. It now powers several current Riviera models, among others.
Yet at Watches and Wonders, the brand opted to introduce a quartz movement inside a 39 mm case. From a historical standpoint, this Riviera 73 variation therefore represents a genuine return to the collection’s roots: a smaller, unisex diameter, a personality leaning slightly more toward elegance than sportiness, and the revival of the original quartz movement.
An XXL collection
As a result, the Riviera has effectively become the most extensive collection in the entire Baume & Mercier catalogue. This is true both in terms of depth, with mechanical and quartz movements as well as multiple complications, and breadth, with an exceptionally wide variety of finishes and diameters ranging from 33, 36 and 39 mm all the way to 40, 41, 42 and 43 mm.
Within this vast portfolio, the Riviera 73 occupies a very specific role. It embodies the desire to reconnect with the origins of the model and remain as faithful as possible to the original piece. The caseback proudly displays the year of birth in unmistakably 1970s-inspired typography. The quartz movement carries a double significance: it recalls the foundations of the collection while also providing an attractive level of price accessibility.
A dedicated case design for the Riviera 73
The removal of the screws previously visible on the bezel reinforces the watch’s vintage appeal. It also allows the case thickness to be significantly reduced to 7.7 mm. Baume & Mercier emphasizes that this case was specially developed for the Riviera 73. It is not derived from an existing design, but rather conceived as a slimmer, softer and more refined construction, offering a curvature better suited to the wrist. In this way, the Riviera 73 clearly asserts its identity: more dress watch than tool watch.
The next additions to the collection are expected this September. New bracelet options are planned, while previously unseen dial colors should follow in 2027.
