Over the course of 250 years, it is inevitable that a brand will become synonymous with certain design language, technical feats, or even core collections. This is true for Breguet, one of the oldest brands in continuous operation and one that has notched monumental inventions in watchmaking like the tourbillon thanks to the hands of incredible artisans.
Breguet’s accomplishments in the field of horology are vast. The Maison has a deep history in the development of Marine chronometers thanks to close partnership with the French Royal Navy. Its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet is also responsible for pioneering the first wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples. These are just two key examples of Breguet’s legacy (both within the confines of the brand’s history and broader watchmaking) giving way to two of the Maison’s core collections: the Marine and the Reine de Naples.
Last week, at an exclusive event in New York City, the Maison unveiled new additions to both flagship lines. Here, collectors gathered, Breguet’s master craftsmen were put on display, and North American Brand President Vincent Brasesco gave a brief talk on the brand’s latest models, the continued 250th anniversary celebration, and the importance of the U.S. market.
Three New Marine 5517 Models
When Abraham-Louis Breguet was named the official supplier to the French Royal Navy in 1815, this was one of the highest honors a watchmaker could receive at the time. Marine chronometers were vital tools for fleets to calculate operations at sea, coordinate their operations, and ensure safe passage.
Fast forward to Breguet in present day. In 2018, the Maison introduced the Marine 5517. The model marked a departure from the more sober designs inspired by the original marine pocket watches and brought the line into the modern era with elements like a titanium build.
For the 250th anniversary celebration, Breguet debuts three new models that perfectly balance past and present. These watches uphold the more contemporary design language of the Marine mixed with nods to the past. Each version offers a gorgeous 18-karat rose gold build with modern oversized proportions of 40mm. The dial is also a showpiece of every new iteration, featuring a hand guilloche wave pattern rendered in classic blue. The three variations differ in their strap. While this may seem like a small detail, it really offers three totally unique personalities: the most elevated on leather, the most classic yet sporty on bracelet, and the most contemporary, sporty, and monochromatic on blue rubber.
The Reine de Naples 9935 and 8925
The Reine de Naples is arguably one of the most iconic dedicated women’s lines in the history of watchmaking. In its 250th anniversary year, the Maison continues to elevate its new proprietary alloy, Breguet gold, which is the star of the show in both new references of the Reine de Naples.
With the reference 9935, the Maison offers three new styles. However, the highlight of the reference 9935 lies under the hood. Here, you have an entirely new movement for the collection that allows for a larger and more prominent moonphase display. Further emphasizing the romantic complication, for the first time in the Reine de Naples collection, the moonphase model no longer has a power-reserve indicator. Instead, the display focuses on the hours and minutes, the small seconds, and taking center stage: the moonphase.
Alternatively, with the reference 8925, Breguet takes a more restrained and minimalistic approach focused on clarity, legibility, and, of course, beauty. These time-only models offer a new densely set bezel set with 41 diamonds for the ultimate glamour paired with a gold Breguet bracelet articulated at the round central case lug, adorned with snow-setting for the first time. Also offered in a trio of colorways, there is the option of a mother of pearl dial, black aventurine dial, or a sunburst-brushed gold dial offering a monochromatic look.
